Wednesday, September 14, 2011
How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?
just replaced pads and rotors on front, now drivers side rotor gets way hot,smokes anyone know what i did wrong? ive changed pads and rotors a few times and never had any problems.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?well if u never opened up the bleeder you should not have to bleed the brakes at all. If your rotors are smoking after u used them a few times and getting too hot i would check to make sure your slides are working. take the caliper off again make sure both of the slide pins are not frozen or one is not frozen. Also, make sure your brake hoses are good, sometimes they can collapse inside and not let fluid come back and keep your piston held down. So if you don't have bad slide pins i would go with a brake hose.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?did the slides move freely? did the piston push in freely? you may need to replace the caliper and hoseHow to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?caliper seize up. you need to replace it or rebuild it.its your choice.or brake hose collapse.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?sounds like the caliper (the part that moves in and out and holds the pad, is locked in the out position. doesn't sound like you need to bleed the brakes. you only need to do that if you've compromised the system and lost fluid and or let air into the system. take that wheel off and work on getting the caliper to go in and out (back) like it should. maybe the pad isn't setting in it's place correctly and is jammed up against the rotor. without getting the pad wet why not try some wd-40 in there to see if that will help. then wipe the excess off. make sure you can see it going out and then returning in.
What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?
'00 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder, 2.0 Engine Front Wheel Drive.
I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from, but the problems continue. Could these two parts be what is causing the 2 problems if not what could it be? Thanks.
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are toasted on the control arms, you need new arms. Those bushings can't be replaced. They are an integral part of the arm. The sway bar link would not be the problem. Someone trying to squeeze more money out of you. Also, replace the entire shaft and on both sides. Not just the half shaft.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are worn that could definitely lead to a uneven/rough ride... and either way wouldn't hurt to replace them, specifically the control arms.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?if you havent already check to see if a rim could be bent or even check the tires to make sure they are balanced
I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from, but the problems continue. Could these two parts be what is causing the 2 problems if not what could it be? Thanks.
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are toasted on the control arms, you need new arms. Those bushings can't be replaced. They are an integral part of the arm. The sway bar link would not be the problem. Someone trying to squeeze more money out of you. Also, replace the entire shaft and on both sides. Not just the half shaft.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are worn that could definitely lead to a uneven/rough ride... and either way wouldn't hurt to replace them, specifically the control arms.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?if you havent already check to see if a rim could be bent or even check the tires to make sure they are balanced
What is Wrong Here in Ford Car?
'00 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder, 2.0 Engine Front Wheel Drive.
I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? Also I posted a picture of the cv because it shows a part that is like a gear, don't know if that's how it suppose to be. It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from. Could this be what is causing the 2 problemS? . Thanks.
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here in Ford Car?the trans-axle is usually about 1/4 inch from frame, just make sure it doesn't rub, could have bad hub bearingWhat is Wrong Here in Ford Car?The %26quot;gear%26quot; is the ABS brake sensor wheel. That is used to read whether the wheel is turning or the brakes locked up in a skid. That is most liely not your problem unless you feel the brakes pulsing. Take it to a mechanic at this point. Look at how much you spent for no reason.
I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? Also I posted a picture of the cv because it shows a part that is like a gear, don't know if that's how it suppose to be. It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from. Could this be what is causing the 2 problemS? . Thanks.
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10
http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here in Ford Car?the trans-axle is usually about 1/4 inch from frame, just make sure it doesn't rub, could have bad hub bearingWhat is Wrong Here in Ford Car?The %26quot;gear%26quot; is the ABS brake sensor wheel. That is used to read whether the wheel is turning or the brakes locked up in a skid. That is most liely not your problem unless you feel the brakes pulsing. Take it to a mechanic at this point. Look at how much you spent for no reason.
How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?
My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.
Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.
First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?
Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?
Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.
Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.
First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?
Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?
Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.
Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?
96 accord, lx, 4 cylinder, auto. 162,000 miles
I have barely had my car for one year, and have replaced brake pads, rotors, left ball joint, given it a tune-up, had the valves de-carboned and adjusted, and have also replaced the radiator, EGR valve, fuel filter, IAC valve, and ignition coil. when I took it in somewhere to check about a bad sounding brake, they told me the pads are aftermarket, but everything is otherwise fine. However, they said they found a leak at the rear main seal, and have quoted me $840 to fix that. Other shops thought the small oil leak was coming from the oil pan gasket, but these guys did a more specific check on such things.
Anyway, I've paid a ridiculous amount of money to fix this car up. Everyone says the engine and transmission seam to be fine, and that it's a car with a good life ahead of it, but I'm really worried. This is an expensive repair, and I also need to change the timing belt and water pump in the next 10k miles. My struts are also worn, though I hear they can be a home-job. My car has it's quirks, I'm just terrified of having to put more and more money into this thing. I said %26quot;one more repair%26quot; some five repairs ago
How much would it cost to replace the rear main seal? I know a lot of stuff has to be removed to reach it, but the damn part is only $20 and I have a hard time thinking I'd really be paying $820 in labor. Also, I need to know if 162k miles sounds normal for such a repair. I don't know if these things go bad at regular intervals or whether the people who owned the car before me ran it rough (they sure didn't bother to change much!)
I will probably call some shops around and see what they quote, but I'd like to see what other people say as wellCost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?The transmission has to come out to change the seal but still $800 seems like a lot. Get an estimate from independent mechanics. You don't have to go to the dealer. I would consider getting an engine from a salvage yard with less miles on it and many such yards will do the labor and provide the engine for less than $800.
Use has little to do with seal leaking. Seals can dry out and shrink over time due to various factors and start leaking. If the leak isn't bad, maybe you can live with it? Years ago there was a problem with compatibility issues between some synthetic oils and conventional oils and if you used synthetic oil and then switched to conventional it could result in leaking seals. Since your vehicle is 14 years old, who knows? this could be a contributing factor. However the compatibility problem has reportedly been solved for some time and should not be a problem with any name brand oils.
I know this is not a solution but something to consider. Personally If it was me I would seriously consider one of 2 options 1. changing the engine to one with less miles that will not need a timing belt for a while or 2. Giving up on this loss and look for another vehicle.Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?I can't believe this question is considered %26quot;resolved%26quot; with these answers and won't allow me to %26quot;answer%26quot;. Go to a site that specializes in Honda Accords like CB7tuner.com, cb5tuner.com, or HondaHookup and post your question, you will get better answers. The repair probably isn't even necessary.
If the leak is small there's no hurry. And there's no certainty *at all* that the leak derives from the rear main oil seal in the first place as you really can't tell without taking the tranny off. There's no %26quot;diagnostic%26quot; that will tell.
I will agree, do not got to the dealership.Duvet cover designers research columnheader
I have barely had my car for one year, and have replaced brake pads, rotors, left ball joint, given it a tune-up, had the valves de-carboned and adjusted, and have also replaced the radiator, EGR valve, fuel filter, IAC valve, and ignition coil. when I took it in somewhere to check about a bad sounding brake, they told me the pads are aftermarket, but everything is otherwise fine. However, they said they found a leak at the rear main seal, and have quoted me $840 to fix that. Other shops thought the small oil leak was coming from the oil pan gasket, but these guys did a more specific check on such things.
Anyway, I've paid a ridiculous amount of money to fix this car up. Everyone says the engine and transmission seam to be fine, and that it's a car with a good life ahead of it, but I'm really worried. This is an expensive repair, and I also need to change the timing belt and water pump in the next 10k miles. My struts are also worn, though I hear they can be a home-job. My car has it's quirks, I'm just terrified of having to put more and more money into this thing. I said %26quot;one more repair%26quot; some five repairs ago
How much would it cost to replace the rear main seal? I know a lot of stuff has to be removed to reach it, but the damn part is only $20 and I have a hard time thinking I'd really be paying $820 in labor. Also, I need to know if 162k miles sounds normal for such a repair. I don't know if these things go bad at regular intervals or whether the people who owned the car before me ran it rough (they sure didn't bother to change much!)
I will probably call some shops around and see what they quote, but I'd like to see what other people say as wellCost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?The transmission has to come out to change the seal but still $800 seems like a lot. Get an estimate from independent mechanics. You don't have to go to the dealer. I would consider getting an engine from a salvage yard with less miles on it and many such yards will do the labor and provide the engine for less than $800.
Use has little to do with seal leaking. Seals can dry out and shrink over time due to various factors and start leaking. If the leak isn't bad, maybe you can live with it? Years ago there was a problem with compatibility issues between some synthetic oils and conventional oils and if you used synthetic oil and then switched to conventional it could result in leaking seals. Since your vehicle is 14 years old, who knows? this could be a contributing factor. However the compatibility problem has reportedly been solved for some time and should not be a problem with any name brand oils.
I know this is not a solution but something to consider. Personally If it was me I would seriously consider one of 2 options 1. changing the engine to one with less miles that will not need a timing belt for a while or 2. Giving up on this loss and look for another vehicle.Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?I can't believe this question is considered %26quot;resolved%26quot; with these answers and won't allow me to %26quot;answer%26quot;. Go to a site that specializes in Honda Accords like CB7tuner.com, cb5tuner.com, or HondaHookup and post your question, you will get better answers. The repair probably isn't even necessary.
Report Abuse
Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?(continued)If the leak is small there's no hurry. And there's no certainty *at all* that the leak derives from the rear main oil seal in the first place as you really can't tell without taking the tranny off. There's no %26quot;diagnostic%26quot; that will tell.
I will agree, do not got to the dealership.
Report Abuse
Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?you are wasting your money on the car it is clearly a lemon and I would not be surprised if either it had been neglected or the mileage is way over what you believe, the leak is more likely from the gasket but topping up with oil is by far the cheapest option
How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?
I drive a 1999 corolla with 116,000 miles on it. I recently just replaced the brake pads and after that it started having these high-pitched screeching noises like nails on a chalkboard. I've been researching online and many people say it's the pads, but I've just replaced it 2 months ago. So what's causing this matter? I believe it's happening in my front brakes. I looked at the brakes and there are some brown rust on it. Should I take out the wheels and clean it with a metal wired scrub and some brake cleaning sprays? I know nothing about cars or brakes except there's the rotor part, disc part, and pad part...I took it to the mechanic and he changed the pads, should I change the rotor ad disc too?How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?http://lmgtfy.com/?q=screeching+brakes
I'd bother writing it up....but you could have figured it out on your own.How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?its the brake pads that why there are different price for the pads different materials they are made of and some have silencer sprayed on the back of the pads to stop the noiseHow do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?check the clips as well as the brake pads. sometimes those clips will rub on the rotor which will cause that. also pull the wheels and take a rag soak it in brake cleaner and out it on the rotor front and back and spin the axle with the rag on it to clean the front and rear of the brake rotor. try that and if nothing else deal with it.
I'd bother writing it up....but you could have figured it out on your own.How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?its the brake pads that why there are different price for the pads different materials they are made of and some have silencer sprayed on the back of the pads to stop the noiseHow do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?check the clips as well as the brake pads. sometimes those clips will rub on the rotor which will cause that. also pull the wheels and take a rag soak it in brake cleaner and out it on the rotor front and back and spin the axle with the rag on it to clean the front and rear of the brake rotor. try that and if nothing else deal with it.
Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??
I have a purchased new Honda and I had the brakes serviced at one of the chain brake service companies for Squealing at about 20k miles. Now it is at about 50k and it is squealing again. Brought it back to one of the chain's that services brakes same chain different locale and they had some different news other then the usual %26quot;pads needed to be changed.%26quot; They said the pads are fine but there are %26quot;hot spots%26quot; on the rotors, they went on to explain it was the calipers that were faulty and that they are sticking causing the hot spots hence rotor break down. They said I shouldbrign the car to the dealship to have it serviced because it was originally the fault of the calipers being faulty and it the cost should be free. Well I went to Honda and a service advicor said it was not the calipers but the pads that the particular Brake service company uses. %26quot;Just Brakes%26quot; Honda said that the pads are causing the hot spots because of the hardness of their pads.
How do I find resolution???Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think they are both wrong. Hard pads will wear the rotors faster but not cause hot spots. And at 50k miles its hard to belive that both calipers are going bad unless someone contaminated the fluid ( the rubber in the cap for the brake fluid will be swollen and falling apart). If it was me I would buy new rotors and decent pads from the parts store and replace myself or take my own pars to shop of choice. Also try giving your self more time to stop. Both pads and rotors will last longer.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??Listen to honda hard brakes are cheap and not worth the money. Generally they do more damage than goodHonda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I would like to be able to tell you that it was one or the other one's fault,but I can't because they both could be right.Want it gets down to is that neither one wants to do it free of charge.They just want to blame each otrher for the problem.Best thing to do is to take the rotors and have them turned for about $15. bucks each,then buy some new brake pads and be done with it .Good day to you.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??You can buy new rotors for just $20 each from your local auto parts store.
Installing them is relatively easy. Just jack up your car onto jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the caliper bolts, the caliper and mount, and finally the old rotor. Then install the new rotor and work your way backwards to complete the job.
This also gives you an opportunity to inspect the claims of what all these peepz have said and judge for yourself whom to trust or always be safe by just fixing it yourself.
Good luck!Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think at 50,000 miles you are out of luck with the dealer warrantying your brakes. Hot spots can be caused by panic stops or excessive hard braking. At 50,000 miles I do not anticipate caliper problems, other than slide pins sticking. Slide pins can be cleaned and lubricated without replacing the whole caliper assembly. I suspect this is the problem. If the rotors have been heated up, I recommend replacing them with the brake pad and caliper slide pin service. Cleaning the caliper slide pins is part of the brake service at most reputable repair facilities, only expect an extra charge if the caliper boots need to come off and be replaced as part of this service. I would expect an additional $40.00 to replace the boots and hone out the caliper slide pin slots.
How do I find resolution???Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think they are both wrong. Hard pads will wear the rotors faster but not cause hot spots. And at 50k miles its hard to belive that both calipers are going bad unless someone contaminated the fluid ( the rubber in the cap for the brake fluid will be swollen and falling apart). If it was me I would buy new rotors and decent pads from the parts store and replace myself or take my own pars to shop of choice. Also try giving your self more time to stop. Both pads and rotors will last longer.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??Listen to honda hard brakes are cheap and not worth the money. Generally they do more damage than goodHonda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I would like to be able to tell you that it was one or the other one's fault,but I can't because they both could be right.Want it gets down to is that neither one wants to do it free of charge.They just want to blame each otrher for the problem.Best thing to do is to take the rotors and have them turned for about $15. bucks each,then buy some new brake pads and be done with it .Good day to you.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??You can buy new rotors for just $20 each from your local auto parts store.
Installing them is relatively easy. Just jack up your car onto jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the caliper bolts, the caliper and mount, and finally the old rotor. Then install the new rotor and work your way backwards to complete the job.
This also gives you an opportunity to inspect the claims of what all these peepz have said and judge for yourself whom to trust or always be safe by just fixing it yourself.
Good luck!Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think at 50,000 miles you are out of luck with the dealer warrantying your brakes. Hot spots can be caused by panic stops or excessive hard braking. At 50,000 miles I do not anticipate caliper problems, other than slide pins sticking. Slide pins can be cleaned and lubricated without replacing the whole caliper assembly. I suspect this is the problem. If the rotors have been heated up, I recommend replacing them with the brake pad and caliper slide pin service. Cleaning the caliper slide pins is part of the brake service at most reputable repair facilities, only expect an extra charge if the caliper boots need to come off and be replaced as part of this service. I would expect an additional $40.00 to replace the boots and hone out the caliper slide pin slots.
I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?
Ok I know you are probably going to laugh after reading this, but anyhow here it is. I had to order my brakes and rotors and they just came in today, and I realized that I only bought one front rotor and one rear rotor so now I have to order more. I have never changed my own brakes, so I really didn't know what I was ordering when I did it. My uncle is going to show me how to change them after I get the parts. Anyhow, I ordered one set of front brake pads and one set of rear brake pads..... So here is the stupid question, does a set of pads cover the left and right (there is 4 in the box), or do I need to order an additional set of pads along with the rotors......
:)I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?One box of front brake pads will have pads for both sides, no need to order moreI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?each set cover neither the front or the back, each set have 4 pads which for front or the back, but they will have different model number, they won't share the same padsI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?U have what u needI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?You will need 4 pads in the front of the car and 4 in the back. 2 on each wheel.
You will need to order 2 more rotors 1 for the front and 1 for the back. If the front pads came in a box and there are 4 you should be set. you need 4 for the back also.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?If you ordered two sets of pads that would cover the left front and right front.Thus four pads.If you ordered a set for the rear then it would cover the left rear and the right rear.Now as far as the rotors.You do not have to change rotors every time you do a brake job.Are your rotors damaged from the lack of a brake job?Are did you feel you had to replace them along with pads? Anyway on the pads you should be good to go..I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?Pads come as a set for both sides rotors are sold individually because you only usually replace them if they are damaged or warn below there minimum thickness. So if you really need all new rotors get the other 2 you should be fine on the pads.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?remember the only stupid question is the one you didnt ask.in a box of brake pads there are 4 pads,enough to do both sides.not very hard to do.good luck.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?when you order a set of pads, you get set for both wheels in the box.same way for the back.
:)I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?One box of front brake pads will have pads for both sides, no need to order moreI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?each set cover neither the front or the back, each set have 4 pads which for front or the back, but they will have different model number, they won't share the same padsI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?U have what u needI have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?You will need 4 pads in the front of the car and 4 in the back. 2 on each wheel.
You will need to order 2 more rotors 1 for the front and 1 for the back. If the front pads came in a box and there are 4 you should be set. you need 4 for the back also.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?If you ordered two sets of pads that would cover the left front and right front.Thus four pads.If you ordered a set for the rear then it would cover the left rear and the right rear.Now as far as the rotors.You do not have to change rotors every time you do a brake job.Are your rotors damaged from the lack of a brake job?Are did you feel you had to replace them along with pads? Anyway on the pads you should be good to go..I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?Pads come as a set for both sides rotors are sold individually because you only usually replace them if they are damaged or warn below there minimum thickness. So if you really need all new rotors get the other 2 you should be fine on the pads.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?remember the only stupid question is the one you didnt ask.in a box of brake pads there are 4 pads,enough to do both sides.not very hard to do.good luck.I have an extremely stupid question about my brakes!?when you order a set of pads, you get set for both wheels in the box.same way for the back.
How much is routine maintenance on a 2000 Audi S4? Brakes, Tranny Service, etc...?
I'm thinking about buying a 2000 Audi S4, all the ones I've looked at have less than 70k miles, but I can't find how much maintenance on this car is. How much to change pads and rotors, how much for an Auto tranny service....Also, what problems have you encountered, if any.How much is routine maintenance on a 2000 Audi S4? Brakes, Tranny Service, etc...?It can vary from shop to shop. Give Mike a call at Wicked Motorsports, he can give you some ball park numbers and is a well respect tuner of the B5 S4 Audi.
I can't remember how much pads and rotors ran me but a timing belt and waterpump job a few years ago ran me about $1300 bucks or so. It's a big job so there's a lot of other little things you might as well have done while the front is off. I think it's reasonable to expect anywhere from $1000 to $2000 per year in maintenance cost. On any out of warranty car you should be socking away $200 to $300 bucks per month in the future repair/maintenance fund.
A lot of the problems with the B5 were due to owner usage and modification. The more you left the alone the more reliable they tended to be. If the car was chipped or tuned the turbos have probably been blown and replaced at least once. Anyway, check the Quattroworld board and give Mike a call.
I can't remember how much pads and rotors ran me but a timing belt and waterpump job a few years ago ran me about $1300 bucks or so. It's a big job so there's a lot of other little things you might as well have done while the front is off. I think it's reasonable to expect anywhere from $1000 to $2000 per year in maintenance cost. On any out of warranty car you should be socking away $200 to $300 bucks per month in the future repair/maintenance fund.
A lot of the problems with the B5 were due to owner usage and modification. The more you left the alone the more reliable they tended to be. If the car was chipped or tuned the turbos have probably been blown and replaced at least once. Anyway, check the Quattroworld board and give Mike a call.
2004 Dodge Neon Advice?
Hi I have a 2004 dodge neon SXT 2.0L I recenlty purchased it back in Oct 2009 the dealership said that they changed the brake pads and the shoes (it was even stated on the safety inspection sheet) but I noticed that my front brakes squeak when I almost come to a full stop. Also I noticed last night that there is a faint grinding noice when I drive on my drivers side. My boyfriends dad and brother said it is probably the brake pads or the rotors but how can that be when the dealership just changed them?? Please any advice would help! Thanks2004 Dodge Neon Advice?Hmmm. If they actually changed them it is probably brake dust causing the squeak and as for the grind it could be a tab hitting rotor. However if you bought this car in October...take it back and ask them POLTELY to check it out. If they value you as a customer they will do this without a question and apologize for the problem. Remember, be nice till its time not to be. Good Luck2004 Dodge Neon Advice?Low quality pads,take it back to the dealer it is still under warranty, it is a safety issue and they have to be on top of it, by law. You can see through the holes on the rims and tell if the pads are new or the rotors have been cut, good luckdirectx 9 0c runtime myspace pages
How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?
I have a 98 nissan altima, and I've let my brakes go pretty long without changing them. They have gone past squeaking and are now grinding. I know I'll have to get pads and probably rotors for my front two wheels, but I'm not sure if its gotten to the point to where my entire brake system needs to be replaced. Lets say it does. My car was apprasised at $1900 w/ my bad brakes, $2350 with new brakes. I'm thinking that if the repair approaches the value of my car, I might as well wait a few more days and get a new car, since I have the money to do so, but don't really want payments. Any ideas?How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?You probably dont need calipers but you will need new rotors and pads. Here is the prices of stuff from autozone:
Front Calipers: $76 each
Front Rotors: $30 each
Front Pads: $17 set
So if you just did rotors and pads, which is all you probably need. It would be $77 dollars plus tax and random cleaners and greases.How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?rotors and calipers will cost 450 to 550....calipers add another 300/400..probably doesn't need calipers.How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?As long as your pistons haven't popped out of their bore, you probably don't need calipers, but pads and rotors, ummmmmm...probably will need them.
Just two fronts, maybe $250 to $300...How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?not worth it. it would cost like 400$ plus your time...
Front Calipers: $76 each
Front Rotors: $30 each
Front Pads: $17 set
So if you just did rotors and pads, which is all you probably need. It would be $77 dollars plus tax and random cleaners and greases.How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?rotors and calipers will cost 450 to 550....calipers add another 300/400..probably doesn't need calipers.How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?As long as your pistons haven't popped out of their bore, you probably don't need calipers, but pads and rotors, ummmmmm...probably will need them.
Just two fronts, maybe $250 to $300...How much to replace rotors, calipers, and pads on altima?not worth it. it would cost like 400$ plus your time...
Caliper screw stuck?
We attempted to change the brakes. Lucky us one of the screws to remove the caliper was stuck. My dad wore down the screw intending to replace it once it was removed. We couldn't take the caliper off to reach the brake pads. So we took the car to tire kingdom and had to pay $120 for new brakes (front brakes). The mechanic there couldn't get the screw off either (he said it was frozen, is this common). So he changed the brakes with rotors that needed to be resurfaced. My dad says that the brake pads will probably conform to the shape of the bad rotor and be unusable later.
So my question is, how do i remove a caliper with a frozen screw to replace it?Caliper screw stuck?you will have to heat it up to loosen the bolt and use WD-40 before you heat it up, you should be able to get some large vice grips on the bolt if you have it rounded off.Caliper screw stuck?Soak it with some penetrating liquid (ie. plus gas, wd40, etc..) for a few hours then use mole grips to undo the screw.Caliper screw stuck?I don't understand the question, need more info, what make of car are you talking about.Caliper screw stuck?heat it up with a hand held torch not red hot
if not drill it out and retap itCaliper screw stuck?As long as there is a stub of the head of the screw sticking out, then try to weld a nut onto the stub then use an impact wrench to remove the fabricated bolt.
So my question is, how do i remove a caliper with a frozen screw to replace it?Caliper screw stuck?you will have to heat it up to loosen the bolt and use WD-40 before you heat it up, you should be able to get some large vice grips on the bolt if you have it rounded off.Caliper screw stuck?Soak it with some penetrating liquid (ie. plus gas, wd40, etc..) for a few hours then use mole grips to undo the screw.Caliper screw stuck?I don't understand the question, need more info, what make of car are you talking about.Caliper screw stuck?heat it up with a hand held torch not red hot
if not drill it out and retap itCaliper screw stuck?As long as there is a stub of the head of the screw sticking out, then try to weld a nut onto the stub then use an impact wrench to remove the fabricated bolt.
Rear rotors and All brakes?
hey im looking to fix my 2002 sunfire it makes a hell lot of noise when I press on the brake so im guna change all four pads, are there certain types that fit certain cars ? and my back rotors seem bad they are both covered in rust and when I stop or come close to.. you hear this bang kinda noise from the back, is there anything else I need to take into consideration and how would this to fix at a workshop..thanksRear rotors and All brakes?Pads are easy on disc brakes. pry the pads back away from the rotor surface slightly with a flathead screwdriver, take the bolts or pins out of the caliper and slip it up off the rotor. You will need an 8%26quot; %26quot;C%26quot; clamp to squeeze the pistons back to get the new pads thickness in. Use the old pads in place with the clamp.Don't open the bleeder screw! Don't add fluid till the brakes are in and done. the fluid from pressing the pistons back will be pushed back, up, into the resivor.It's a good idea to scuff/scoure the rotor glaze (glossy finish) off with 80 gritt sand paper before putting the new pads on. Do 1 side at a time so you can look back at the other one in-case you have problems putting one back together..Rear rotors and All brakes?You should get a repair manual (like Hayes) to show you step by step how to change your brakes. As far as different types of brakes just go to the auto parts store, or Chevy dealership and tell them your vehicle. They should be able to hook you up.Rear rotors and All brakes?Go to a parts store and tell them the make of your car and they will get you the correct brakes. From what you are telling you waited too long to do the repairs and you will probably need rotors too. The noise you are hearing is metal to metal. All the pad wore off and it is down to the metal. Disk brakes are easy to change. Usually on a GM car there are 2 long bolts that hold the calipers on. The bolts usually have a head that takes an allen wrench to get them out. When you get the bolts out pry on the piston with a big screw driver to get it back into the caliper otherwise you won't be able to get the caliper back on with the new pads or if you have a big C clamp you can take the caliper off and push the piston back in with the C clamp. You should also loosen the lid on the master cylinder because when you push the piston back in it will start filling the master cylinder with fluid. If you are changing all 4 brakes the fluid will probably run over the top of the master cylinder. You may want to take some out before it runs over and eats the pain off the inner fender. When you put the brakes back on fit the pads back onto the caliper and slip it over the rotor and put the bolts back in and it's done. If the rotors are all chewed up and you have to replace them they will slide off the lug bolts once the caliper is off. There may be a little washer like thing that keeps the rotor in place and it is hard to get off. I usually end up breaking it trying to get it off. That's OK just throw it away, all it's there for is to keep the rotor in place. The caliper will do the same thing when you put it back on. Good luck.
How difficult to do-it-urself brakes on Altima?
My BFs brakes are in need of repair. Unfortunately we don't have the money its going to take to take it in to a repair shop. We've been doing research on the internet and found some pretty good step by step videos on how to do it but I know things like this are better left to the professionals. How difficult would it be to just buy the parts and change it himself (pads, rotors)? Thanks.How difficult to do-it-urself brakes on Altima?Its pretty easy, just get a giant C-clamp to push the brake piston in, so you dont have to bleed the brake system. Shouldnt take but maby 25 mins a side even for beginners.
Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
I recently changed the two front brake pads for the first time and followed everything correctly and was fairly simple job. The brakes were fairly worn down on my truck so I decided it was time. I did not disconnect the brake lines but I did spill some brake fluid out of the master cylinder while compressing the dual pistons on one of the calipers.
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!Can humans catch giardia from dogs makeup for darker skin
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
what
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
i have a 1998 toyota camry. i dont know much about cars and rarely get bigger work done on my car since it hasn't caused me many problems - mainly brakes, tires, and oil changes. i just came from the deadlership (i got an oil change, tire rotation, and new brake pads/rotor reface) and they told me my car:
- has a fluid leak
- has a front engine seals leak
- needs a new timing belt
- has a rear main seal leak
im pretty clueless about cars and always feel like im getting ripped off! how serious are these issues, which are most important to address first, and what are resonable costs for these repairs? about a year ago i was informed of some of these issues and they haven't cause any problems yet. i dont drive that much -- about 50 miles per week with the occasional road trip a few times a year. the car is getting old and i anticipate getting a new one in the next year or so, so i dont want to spend a lot on maintenance that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary to the life of the car....i just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road! thanks for your advice ahead of time.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?peaches, I had similar problems with my Chevrolet Equinox and last month. Get a free auto warranty quote and see if you can get the policy before you need to get your car fixed. http://www.simpleautoquotes.com/Auto-Warranty.htmlCar repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?me and my family own a 1998 toyota camry as well. as of now it is in the shop for an oil pump leak and a broken timing belt. the mechanic told me that he charges $300 for the timing belt replacement. when they replace the belt the front seal is right there so the cost of the seal is all that should apply. as far as the rear seal, the transmission and torque converter must be removed. not sure of the cost on the rear seal. the timing belts should be replaced at or around 90,000 miles. it has been a great car and have owned it for 5 years now and this is the biggest problem to date. we love the car. the 4 cylinder engine is known to go for 300,000 miles beofre a major overhaul is required.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?The timing belt would be the most important. To replace the front main seal would require removing the timing belt anyway. When replacing the front main seal, the rear needs to be changed at the same time to prevent doing the same labor on the car again (removing the oil pan). The fluid leak can be fixed any time and has nothing to do with the others.
My advice, no more than you drive, keep oil and fluid in it and keep driving for a year. If you are really concerned about being stranded, just change the timing belt.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?well the dealer isn't selling cars they need your service to keep it going. the timing chain is only recommended at the miles set to change it,in most cases these out last most cars..if your auto isn't leaking alot i would just leave it. use slick 50 or some motor oil to help seal seals
- has a fluid leak
- has a front engine seals leak
- needs a new timing belt
- has a rear main seal leak
im pretty clueless about cars and always feel like im getting ripped off! how serious are these issues, which are most important to address first, and what are resonable costs for these repairs? about a year ago i was informed of some of these issues and they haven't cause any problems yet. i dont drive that much -- about 50 miles per week with the occasional road trip a few times a year. the car is getting old and i anticipate getting a new one in the next year or so, so i dont want to spend a lot on maintenance that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary to the life of the car....i just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road! thanks for your advice ahead of time.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?peaches, I had similar problems with my Chevrolet Equinox and last month. Get a free auto warranty quote and see if you can get the policy before you need to get your car fixed. http://www.simpleautoquotes.com/Auto-Warranty.htmlCar repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?me and my family own a 1998 toyota camry as well. as of now it is in the shop for an oil pump leak and a broken timing belt. the mechanic told me that he charges $300 for the timing belt replacement. when they replace the belt the front seal is right there so the cost of the seal is all that should apply. as far as the rear seal, the transmission and torque converter must be removed. not sure of the cost on the rear seal. the timing belts should be replaced at or around 90,000 miles. it has been a great car and have owned it for 5 years now and this is the biggest problem to date. we love the car. the 4 cylinder engine is known to go for 300,000 miles beofre a major overhaul is required.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?The timing belt would be the most important. To replace the front main seal would require removing the timing belt anyway. When replacing the front main seal, the rear needs to be changed at the same time to prevent doing the same labor on the car again (removing the oil pan). The fluid leak can be fixed any time and has nothing to do with the others.
My advice, no more than you drive, keep oil and fluid in it and keep driving for a year. If you are really concerned about being stranded, just change the timing belt.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?well the dealer isn't selling cars they need your service to keep it going. the timing chain is only recommended at the miles set to change it,in most cases these out last most cars..if your auto isn't leaking alot i would just leave it. use slick 50 or some motor oil to help seal seals
How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?
I have done the rest of the steel lines at one time or another but now I must change the front. I am ok with the drivers' side but where is the line that runs from the drivers side flexible line over to the passenger side? I cannot seem to see it. I am also ok with bleeding the lines and double flaring but the line location has me stumped. The line change is because the steel line in question split when I bled the left caliper. It was frozen and I changed it along with the rotor and pads. The right side is ok but I put the new pads on anyway like you are supposed to do. They also call for the spindle nut to be set at 75 ft/pounds, then backed off 1/2 turn, then retorqued to 17 to 25 inch pounds. Is all that really critical? When I removes the old rotor it seemed to have some lateral freeplay (1/16th ?). At this time I do not have a torque wrench that small. The inner and outer bearings are new. I did it the book way before but I do not want to buy a dial torque wrench($250). THANKS!How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?First, you don't need a dial torque wrench for inch pounds. You can buy an inexpensive click wrench. Of course they're not as accurate as the expensive ones. But they're a heckofa lot better than guessing. And yes, bearing torque IS critical.
The brake line does NOT run from the driver's side to the passenger side. You have a split system. That means the front left and right rear are on the same circuit and the right front and left rear are on the other circuit. That's why you're not finding the passenger side line by looking at the driver's side.
The brake line does NOT run from the driver's side to the passenger side. You have a split system. That means the front left and right rear are on the same circuit and the right front and left rear are on the other circuit. That's why you're not finding the passenger side line by looking at the driver's side.
Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
Ok, so for starters this is NOT your typical %26quot;Oh, its a brake problem%26quot; or %26quot;Oh, you need a wheel balance%26quot; vibration - kinda tired of seeing those posts with only those solutions.
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called %26quot;chassis ears%26quot; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called %26quot;lower....something%26quot;
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the %26quot;harmonic stabilizer%26quot; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealershipWhere is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called %26quot;chassis ears%26quot; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called %26quot;lower....something%26quot;
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the %26quot;harmonic stabilizer%26quot; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealershipWhere is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
I cut through one brake rotor...?
So yeah. The guy who had this car before me apparently replaced 3 out of 4 rotors when he got the brakes changed(don't ask me why, ive wondered about this for weeks). Anyway, for a while that one rear brake rotor would just make the grinding noise consistent with a warped rotor, and today well. today after a *clunk* my brakes came back up to standard pressure, and the noise ceased. I pulled over, had a look, and lo and behold... no more disc part of the rotor, just the hub. I suspect im in danger of losing fluid, but since the pads on there are fine theyre just squeezing a hunk of the rotor. whats the prognosis? it stops better than it did before, can I just cap the brake line till i have the extra funds to replace that rotor?(spare me the lecture about how i should have done it before, you don't know my financials. ps, its an uncommon luxury car so each rotor is over 100 USD just to buy).I cut through one brake rotor...?the caliper is bad thats why one wore out prematurely and youll need to fix your brake as this could become very dangerousI cut through one brake rotor...?well, you should be fine, but that is a common rotor price, and if you have a luxury car be prepared to pay luxury prices, also should be able to do the work your self, it is relatively simple. If you can change a tire you can change a rotor.I cut through one brake rotor...?if it is on a front wheel i would say to replace it. your car will jerk to the side that has the brake when you apply it. most of your breaking power comes from your front breaks too. i think capping the line would be fine til you get it fixed.I cut through one brake rotor...?No don't drive it.
You will cause more damage to the break system and just rack up a larger bill.
Park it until you can fix it.I cut through one brake rotor...?well if it is a new ish car you should be working on at least split diagonal break lines which means if you loose fluid from one wheel you will have at least 2 that do work for example: the front right goes but you still have your front left and back right working...either way if it isn't affecting your controls/handling on the road when braking or just driving then it should be fine to use....just make sure you can get it to a garage (or do it yourself) as soon as possible to be on the safe sideI cut through one brake rotor...?Okay, here is some advice for the future. If you can't afford expensive maintenance don't buy uncommon luxury cars. Two you should of fixed the problem when you heard it grinding. what probably happened was that the caliper on that rotor went bad and and started clamping down way to hard when you pushed the brakes. Thus, wearing out the brake pads and denigrating the rotor over time. That brake line can be disconnected and capped. Make sure the brakes are not engaged what so ever. Note make sure it doesn't engage when you pull the parking brake also. Most of the braking is done with your front brakes any ways, that is why your car leans forward when you hit the brakes. This is not an advise able fix and i strongly encourage you to fix the brake as soon as possible and sell the car. You need to buy some thing that you can afford to maintain. P.S. you do need to hear the lecture. suck it up, grow up and do better. Good LuckWhy do bed sheets shed extension to sqltableprovider
You will cause more damage to the break system and just rack up a larger bill.
Park it until you can fix it.I cut through one brake rotor...?well if it is a new ish car you should be working on at least split diagonal break lines which means if you loose fluid from one wheel you will have at least 2 that do work for example: the front right goes but you still have your front left and back right working...either way if it isn't affecting your controls/handling on the road when braking or just driving then it should be fine to use....just make sure you can get it to a garage (or do it yourself) as soon as possible to be on the safe sideI cut through one brake rotor...?Okay, here is some advice for the future. If you can't afford expensive maintenance don't buy uncommon luxury cars. Two you should of fixed the problem when you heard it grinding. what probably happened was that the caliper on that rotor went bad and and started clamping down way to hard when you pushed the brakes. Thus, wearing out the brake pads and denigrating the rotor over time. That brake line can be disconnected and capped. Make sure the brakes are not engaged what so ever. Note make sure it doesn't engage when you pull the parking brake also. Most of the braking is done with your front brakes any ways, that is why your car leans forward when you hit the brakes. This is not an advise able fix and i strongly encourage you to fix the brake as soon as possible and sell the car. You need to buy some thing that you can afford to maintain. P.S. you do need to hear the lecture. suck it up, grow up and do better. Good Luck
Why is the driver side rim getting hot?
I have a 1999 Ford Escort and about a week ago my rotors started grinding (like metal on metal indicating it is time for new rotors and brake pads). Around the time that started to happen I would smell a burnt rubber odor every so often. So I changed my rotors and brake pads just yesterday. One of the brake pads was so worn the pad was gone and even some of the metal plate (this was probably what was grinding the rotor when I braked). Today I took the car out for no more than 15 minutes at a time and I would smell burnt rubber EVERY time I stopped. I thought the engine was overheating because it was HOT in there. When I drove it the last time (a short 15 minute, 10 mile drive) I found ONLY my driver side rim was really REALLY hot. What's wrong with my car and how much is this going to cost?Why is the driver side rim getting hot?Jack the car up and try turning the wheel in question. Its possible the caliper is sticking.Why is the driver side rim getting hot?Sounds like a stuck brake caliper not releasing the brake pads, causing braked on that rotor to drag.Why is the driver side rim getting hot?It could be the wheel bearing. But these usually have a grinding noise when they go. And when is that worn the wheel will wobble. But this is something to check. You may also want to recheck your installation of the rotor and pads. Look for any unusual wear spots on the caliper.Why is the driver side rim getting hot?your break caliber is stuckWhy is the driver side rim getting hot?price a set or one caliperWhy is the driver side rim getting hot?you have a caliper hanging up and getting hot.you better get ready to change the caliper and a new set of pads too. it also could be the slides where the caliper is bolted to. the slides might need to be cleaned.Why is the driver side rim getting hot?Driver side brake caliper is sticking (holding pads against rotor even when brake aint applied)
Or bad/worn wheel bearing, but my money is on the caliper
Or bad/worn wheel bearing, but my money is on the caliper
Front brake on 03 hyundai tiburon?
i went to pep boys and they told me i need to fix my front brakes. they told me i have about 30% left on my front brakes and i should change it today. so i was like okay how much does cost to fix it? and they go $450.... are you serious? i mean if i have 30% left on my brakes i dont even have to change rotors right? is it cost that much to just fix pads? where should i go to get the cheapest and reliable job done?Front brake on 03 hyundai tiburon?A lot of shops (WANT) to replace pads, rotors, calipers even if some are not in bad shape, their reason is if you replace all you will brakes like the day it was made. Watch out for these outfits, get a second opinion.Front brake on 03 hyundai tiburon?you need to find a female mechanic in your area, it shouldn't cost that much to slap some pads on it, and to resurface your rotors,Front brake on 03 hyundai tiburon?Get another opinion. Ask how thick the lining is - usually they start about 12mm and time for new when they get to 3-5mm.
I guess it would cost about 90 labor (1 hr)- depending on your area and maybe 80-160 in parts.
I guess it would cost about 90 labor (1 hr)- depending on your area and maybe 80-160 in parts.
Need a little help?
i know how to change brake pads but i never seen any brake drums before, can i change drums and turn the rotors at home or should i leave that up to the mechanics?Need a little help?Buy a chiltons manual for your car, a set of brake spring pliers and a shoe retainer tool. It's a piece of cake. Only do one side at a time so you'll have the otherside to refer too.Need a little help?if your not sure about brakes you should leave it to a proffesional. if they fail...... your screwed!!Need a little help?Turning rotors requires a metal lathe. I don't think you have one at home. If you do go for it! With someone to help who has done it, it is easy. Especially on an automatic machine.
Anyway, drum breaks are a nightmare. Springs flying everywhere. It is kind of dangerous work. Not to mention, it is absolutely filthy work. I would swap the front pads and rotors yourself and bring it somewhere to have the drums done.
Also, you need a few special tools to pull, remove and replace the springs in a drum setup.Need a little help?If you have even minimal mechanical skills you will have no problem. Take one side apart at a time in case you get confused on how the springs go back on, that way you will have a reference. Most auto parts stores sell brake spring tools...get some they shouldn't be over $25 and it will make it a lot easier than trying to use pliers or vice grips.Block the wheels on the opposite end of the car, jack the back (or front) or the car up ,use jack stands, remove the drums and clean everything with a brake cleaner. Do the one side, leave the drum off, do the other side. Take the drums to a shop and get them %26quot;turned%26quot;.You will probably have to adjust the brakes after you put everything back together, the access hole is usually on the back of the shield (you may have to knock out the plug) It also might not be a bad idea to mark the drums..left or right. Get a shop manual for your vehicle..it is probably the most important single investment you can make if you are going to do repairs yourself. I am glad to see that some people still have the skills and desire to do things for themselves. Not only do you save loads of money, you also get the satisfaction of doing something your self and you learn more about your vehicle. Save lots of money,have fun and be careful.....safety first.
Anyway, drum breaks are a nightmare. Springs flying everywhere. It is kind of dangerous work. Not to mention, it is absolutely filthy work. I would swap the front pads and rotors yourself and bring it somewhere to have the drums done.
Also, you need a few special tools to pull, remove and replace the springs in a drum setup.Need a little help?If you have even minimal mechanical skills you will have no problem. Take one side apart at a time in case you get confused on how the springs go back on, that way you will have a reference. Most auto parts stores sell brake spring tools...get some they shouldn't be over $25 and it will make it a lot easier than trying to use pliers or vice grips.Block the wheels on the opposite end of the car, jack the back (or front) or the car up ,use jack stands, remove the drums and clean everything with a brake cleaner. Do the one side, leave the drum off, do the other side. Take the drums to a shop and get them %26quot;turned%26quot;.You will probably have to adjust the brakes after you put everything back together, the access hole is usually on the back of the shield (you may have to knock out the plug) It also might not be a bad idea to mark the drums..left or right. Get a shop manual for your vehicle..it is probably the most important single investment you can make if you are going to do repairs yourself. I am glad to see that some people still have the skills and desire to do things for themselves. Not only do you save loads of money, you also get the satisfaction of doing something your self and you learn more about your vehicle. Save lots of money,have fun and be careful.....safety first.
How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
1.)Order 4 SUV tires and put on vehicle
2.) Do a brake job- probably rotors and pads- both axles
3.) Change the camshaft sensor...(causing check engine light)-Engine: 4.0 OHV
The vehicle is a 1999 ford explorer. How long would it take to get this done? On average..How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?one afternoon. mounting and balancing tires should only take a half hour, and thats if hes really slow. checking and servicing brakes: around an hour. and camshaft sensor change shouldnt take more than an hour either. so drop it off in the afternoon, and pick it up at closing time.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?All he has to do is goto and tire shop and buy them, or they will usually deliver within an hour.
The whole job would take about 2-3 hours if the tech is experienced.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?brake job 3-4 hours even 4 wheel drive
change tires 1 hr -tire shop or costco
change camshaft sensor 1hr
one days workHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?i am a mechanic at a tire shop.it should only take a shop 30 min to do tiers and usually they would have another mechanic do the brakes and the brakes should take about 45 min. and the sensor would only take 15 min. so about an hour at the most that's how we do it in our shopHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?It depends if you go somewhere with the tires already but it could take 3 days tops to get the tires in after ordering them. Brake job would take tops of 4-5 hours and sensor i am not sure but you shold go to
American Muffler
2471 Broad Ave
Memphis, TN 38112 Map
(901) 323-9511
or
American Muffler li
3766 Lamar Ave.
Memphis, TN 38118
(90)-362-8240
2.) Do a brake job- probably rotors and pads- both axles
3.) Change the camshaft sensor...(causing check engine light)-Engine: 4.0 OHV
The vehicle is a 1999 ford explorer. How long would it take to get this done? On average..How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?one afternoon. mounting and balancing tires should only take a half hour, and thats if hes really slow. checking and servicing brakes: around an hour. and camshaft sensor change shouldnt take more than an hour either. so drop it off in the afternoon, and pick it up at closing time.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?All he has to do is goto and tire shop and buy them, or they will usually deliver within an hour.
The whole job would take about 2-3 hours if the tech is experienced.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?brake job 3-4 hours even 4 wheel drive
change tires 1 hr -tire shop or costco
change camshaft sensor 1hr
one days workHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?i am a mechanic at a tire shop.it should only take a shop 30 min to do tiers and usually they would have another mechanic do the brakes and the brakes should take about 45 min. and the sensor would only take 15 min. so about an hour at the most that's how we do it in our shopHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?It depends if you go somewhere with the tires already but it could take 3 days tops to get the tires in after ordering them. Brake job would take tops of 4-5 hours and sensor i am not sure but you shold go to
American Muffler
2471 Broad Ave
Memphis, TN 38112 Map
(901) 323-9511
or
American Muffler li
3766 Lamar Ave.
Memphis, TN 38118
(90)-362-8240
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Specs: 1994 Toyota Celica
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.server guys for the advice
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.
How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?
I need to change all four of my rotors and pads on my nissan 200sx(1997). I was wondering if anyone had a step by step proceedure on completing this task.How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?Go to Auto Zone and buy a Haynes manual. It'll give you step by step instructions plus some pictures.How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?Agree with first poster. Also have another jack, don't rely on the one that comes with the car, and if you can, have access to another car so you can go to the store if the pads are the wrong ones/ you break something etc.
1996 Jeep- how to get the rear rotors off?
I'm trying to change the rear rotor on my Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 L. I took off the caliper, brake pads and I still cannot get the rotor to come off. Is there anything else that connects the rotor like emergency brake, etc. Thanks Mike1996 Jeep- how to get the rear rotors off?Did you see any set screws sometimes they are on there, or you may want to take some liquid wrench and soak the rotors and let sit for about ten mins and the knock the crap out of it sometimes they need to be heated to be removed, it is caused by your brakes getting hot so they kind of weld on there
How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?
My mechanic is telling me he can't open the calipers to change the pads or replace the rotor. He is telling me that he has to replace the entire front brake system. I can drive and have functionality because of my rear brakes but am driving very little until I get the front fixed.
Is there a way I can manipulate the calipers to 'unfreeze' them, ie, get them moving again? I have replaced brake pads with no problem in the past so have a little knowledge and am unwilling to pay $500 for what my mechanic says has to be done (at least at this point).
Please note that the car sat with very little driving done for several months, from about May to Oct 2007.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?If the mechanic can't get the calipers off because they are frozen they most likely need to be replaced.
If you can get the calipers off, take one off at a time and try pushing the piston back in using a large c-clamp. You can also try pushing on the brake pedal with the caliper off to try to break the piston free before using the c-clamp to push the piston back in. Just make sure you have someone watch the piston to see if it moves and don't push the pedal much or the piston will blow out.
The bottom line is if you are replacing the pads and rotors you will probably end up ruining the new parts prematurely because the old calipers will hang up and destroy the pads, taking out the new rotors.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?also remove break line from caliperr and see if fluid comes out by lightly pushing down on break pedal with hand,if u want to bleed breaks,put a piece of 2by4 behind break pedal to avoid damage mastercylinder
You can replace the calipers and rotors yourself with loaded calipers, new rotors and flexible brake lines(recommended) for less than $200 total.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?Re; thebax2006's suggestion to hit the brake pedal with the caliper off the rotor, put some blocks of wood where the rotor (and/or pads) would be, so the piston doesn't pop all the way out. And keep your fingers out of the way!How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?You will need to remove the caliper and most likely replace it. The piston is probably frozen and if you unfreeze it, you may damage the seal, resulting in brake fluid leakage.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?Your mechanic isn't trying to screw ya.Rebuilt calipers are not expensive. If money is tight, do it yerself. =^ )How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?You can back the calipers up enough to take them off and replace them, but theres no way your going to unfreeze them and not replace them
Is there a way I can manipulate the calipers to 'unfreeze' them, ie, get them moving again? I have replaced brake pads with no problem in the past so have a little knowledge and am unwilling to pay $500 for what my mechanic says has to be done (at least at this point).
Please note that the car sat with very little driving done for several months, from about May to Oct 2007.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?If the mechanic can't get the calipers off because they are frozen they most likely need to be replaced.
If you can get the calipers off, take one off at a time and try pushing the piston back in using a large c-clamp. You can also try pushing on the brake pedal with the caliper off to try to break the piston free before using the c-clamp to push the piston back in. Just make sure you have someone watch the piston to see if it moves and don't push the pedal much or the piston will blow out.
The bottom line is if you are replacing the pads and rotors you will probably end up ruining the new parts prematurely because the old calipers will hang up and destroy the pads, taking out the new rotors.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?also remove break line from caliperr and see if fluid comes out by lightly pushing down on break pedal with hand,if u want to bleed breaks,put a piece of 2by4 behind break pedal to avoid damage mastercylinder
Report Abuse
How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?If the front wheel rotates you can remove the caliper. Sometimes a ridge will form on the edge of the rotor, it should just break off or you can grind or file the ridge off. Now rotate the wheel so the removed ridge is under the caliper. The caliper will now come off.You can replace the calipers and rotors yourself with loaded calipers, new rotors and flexible brake lines(recommended) for less than $200 total.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?Re; thebax2006's suggestion to hit the brake pedal with the caliper off the rotor, put some blocks of wood where the rotor (and/or pads) would be, so the piston doesn't pop all the way out. And keep your fingers out of the way!How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?You will need to remove the caliper and most likely replace it. The piston is probably frozen and if you unfreeze it, you may damage the seal, resulting in brake fluid leakage.How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?Your mechanic isn't trying to screw ya.Rebuilt calipers are not expensive. If money is tight, do it yerself. =^ )How can I 'unfreeze' my brake calipers on my Pontiac Grand Prix?You can back the calipers up enough to take them off and replace them, but theres no way your going to unfreeze them and not replace them
Brakes Acura 1.7El?
Should i change my own brakes pads and rotors on my Acura 1.7EL. I just started learning how to tinker with my car.Brakes Acura 1.7El?Ken:
Front disc pads are fairly straight forward. As you are just starting out, make certain that you have a repair manual that walks through each required step. Better yet is having someone who knows brakes to show you how.
I use a 'C' clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper bore. This is inexpensive and effective. A basic set of metric wrenches and sockets will get the job done. It is good to have a torque wrench to secure the mounting bolts correctly (most also call for use of thread lock compound).
Rear drum brakes are more involved but can still be done at home. Just make certain that you do one side at a time! Do not take both sides off, because you will need to refer back to the other side to see how it goes back together (I know you are asking about disc brakes, but many cars have rear drums).
Rear drum brakes have a 'leading' and 'trailing' shoe. On many applications these can be installed incorrectly. Need to match the new to old shoes.
Many front disc brakes have an inboard and outboard pad - some are interchangeable. Need to make certain that these are installed correctly (usually it is very obvious on the front).
There is a lot of technique to doing brake jobs: how the rotors are machined, using anti-seize (or grease) on metal-to-metal contact points, applying a membrane on rear of brake pads, installing anti-rattle brake hardware, bleeding brakes (something that is not done often enough on most cars).
It is not too hard to do a good brake job with the right tools, procedure and attention to detail.
Marc
Front disc pads are fairly straight forward. As you are just starting out, make certain that you have a repair manual that walks through each required step. Better yet is having someone who knows brakes to show you how.
I use a 'C' clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper bore. This is inexpensive and effective. A basic set of metric wrenches and sockets will get the job done. It is good to have a torque wrench to secure the mounting bolts correctly (most also call for use of thread lock compound).
Rear drum brakes are more involved but can still be done at home. Just make certain that you do one side at a time! Do not take both sides off, because you will need to refer back to the other side to see how it goes back together (I know you are asking about disc brakes, but many cars have rear drums).
Rear drum brakes have a 'leading' and 'trailing' shoe. On many applications these can be installed incorrectly. Need to match the new to old shoes.
Many front disc brakes have an inboard and outboard pad - some are interchangeable. Need to make certain that these are installed correctly (usually it is very obvious on the front).
There is a lot of technique to doing brake jobs: how the rotors are machined, using anti-seize (or grease) on metal-to-metal contact points, applying a membrane on rear of brake pads, installing anti-rattle brake hardware, bleeding brakes (something that is not done often enough on most cars).
It is not too hard to do a good brake job with the right tools, procedure and attention to detail.
Marc
Rear brake pads!!!?
how to push piston in its bore? should i use special tool or can rotate it? if rotate it ,wich way? and its so impotant to unplug parking cable? any good triks how to change em? i have mazda 626,rotors disks, abs,automatic. thanks.Rear brake pads!!!?c-clamp. i use a 12%26quot; one. just loosen the cap of your brake fluid reservoir. you don't need to push the piston in more than 1/4%26quot;, unless you are putting in new rotors. then it might be 3/8%26quot;. it's not rocket science. just push them in a bit so that you can get the calipers off.Rear brake pads!!!?Use a big %26quot;C%26quot; clamp. Apply slow %26amp; steady pressure %26amp; it will back up into its bore. Do NOT rotate the piston. Make sure everything is clean %26amp; in proper operation.Rear brake pads!!!?you could use a special tool, but also a c clamp will do the job. or before you take the pads off while its still on the rotor use a screw driver to push the caliper back. make sure you open the master cylinder because your going to push the fluid back when the caliper is being pushed in. so put a rag around the master cylinder. hope this helpsRear brake pads!!!?you can buy a universal %26quot;special tool%26quot; at any automotive parts store for about five dollars. the whole c-clamp thing is also a good idea. first check to see if the piston is a twist in or push in style.twist in styles will have sort of a flat surface with a few small pieces sticking out(for special tool) and a push in style is a hollow piston,(kinda like a cup) It will not hurt if you turn the piston even if it is a push in style. I have been a master certified ASE mechanic for years. Lisence#M241654connecting database xp
2002 Ford Explorer Brake job question?
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer, the ABS light came on so I know I need brakes. I bought it 5 years ago used and I have not changed the brakes yet so I am assuming I need rotors as well. I have looked around my area to get an estimate of how much a complete brake job would be (with rotors, etc) and at this point I don't have that much money. My question is: can I just replace the brake pads only, and then in a couple of months when I do have the money replace everything? I just moved to South Florida from Mass. so I do not know anyone that can change the brakes on the side, or a place the is reputable and cheap.
Thank you,2002 Ford Explorer Brake job question?the abs is a anti lock system,the abs light has nothing to do with the condition of your brakes.it may be telling you the abs is not working which is no big deal.and yes you can just replace the pads even if the rotors are grooved,the pads just sort of mold in.2002 Ford Explorer Brake job question?The answer is yes you can change just the pads. The pads will wear faster because of the imperfections/ wear on the rotors. if you change only the pads Check closely for cracks it the rotors you plan to put back on . Also if they have lots of grooves and are not flat you may take them and have them turned, provided they have enough thickness.
Thank you,2002 Ford Explorer Brake job question?the abs is a anti lock system,the abs light has nothing to do with the condition of your brakes.it may be telling you the abs is not working which is no big deal.and yes you can just replace the pads even if the rotors are grooved,the pads just sort of mold in.2002 Ford Explorer Brake job question?The answer is yes you can change just the pads. The pads will wear faster because of the imperfections/ wear on the rotors. if you change only the pads Check closely for cracks it the rotors you plan to put back on . Also if they have lots of grooves and are not flat you may take them and have them turned, provided they have enough thickness.
Why am I getting less gas mileage?
Recently my 2001 Rav 4 has been getting less and less gas mileage. I have had it for almost 7 years and usually get about 320-330 miles out of a tank. Here recently in the past few months I've gone down to about 240-250 miles per tank. I need a new timing belt soon since I'm at 108K and am due for an oil change in a few weeks. But those things wouldnt decrease my mileage that much would they??? Also, I've recently heard a grinding noise when I switch gears or accelerate rapidly which I did not hear before. It's coming from the passenger side of the engine. I dont know a whole lot about vehicles other than how to change oil, tires, brake pads, and rotors. :-/Why am I getting less gas mileage?How long has it been since it was tuned up? Could be time to do that.
Also try this. Replace your fuel filter and then get a fuel pressure test. One of the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator is a Noticeable decrease in fuel mileage. Here are some other symptoms%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Engine runs rough
Engine stumbles or sputters
Engine runs very rich - black smoke from the exhaust
Engine will not start
Engine starts but stalls shortly after startup
Noisy fuel pumpWhy am I getting less gas mileage?It could be that your timing belt is going bad and yes bad oil. but what about your air cleaner or even your o2 senors. Bad timing would definitely hurt you gas mileage alone. even bad spark plugs and wires could hurt your gas mileage. try giving it a tune up; change the plug and wires, oil, and air cleaner it the mileage will most likely go back up.Why am I getting less gas mileage?That's almost a 30% drop in tank mileage. I presume you are not smelling gasoline or have a 'check engine light' or you would have mentioned it in your post. I don't think a timing belt would cause that big of a drop otherwise your engine would be running quite rough.. A web site I visited stated that your fuel tank capacity is 14.7 gallons. They don't say if that is usable capacity or absolute capacity. But, based on the 14.7 gallon capacity, 330 mile range is about 22.5 mpg and 250 mile range is about 17 mpg. I think taking it to a diagnostic center might tell you where you are losing the 5.5 mpg.
Also try this. Replace your fuel filter and then get a fuel pressure test. One of the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator is a Noticeable decrease in fuel mileage. Here are some other symptoms%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Engine runs rough
Engine stumbles or sputters
Engine runs very rich - black smoke from the exhaust
Engine will not start
Engine starts but stalls shortly after startup
Noisy fuel pumpWhy am I getting less gas mileage?It could be that your timing belt is going bad and yes bad oil. but what about your air cleaner or even your o2 senors. Bad timing would definitely hurt you gas mileage alone. even bad spark plugs and wires could hurt your gas mileage. try giving it a tune up; change the plug and wires, oil, and air cleaner it the mileage will most likely go back up.Why am I getting less gas mileage?That's almost a 30% drop in tank mileage. I presume you are not smelling gasoline or have a 'check engine light' or you would have mentioned it in your post. I don't think a timing belt would cause that big of a drop otherwise your engine would be running quite rough.. A web site I visited stated that your fuel tank capacity is 14.7 gallons. They don't say if that is usable capacity or absolute capacity. But, based on the 14.7 gallon capacity, 330 mile range is about 22.5 mpg and 250 mile range is about 17 mpg. I think taking it to a diagnostic center might tell you where you are losing the 5.5 mpg.
Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?
Ok so i just got a 1998 Ford Escort from my grandma who passed away couple weeks back. So just to be safe i got it checked at Midas. They told me i had 2 get all my brakes pads, my front rotor and my serpentine belt changed. Im not really good with cars so please explain this to me. when they said get ur front rotor changed, what does that mean...both front tires...how many rotors does a car have..... And also does anyone know where i can get all these parts cheap. PLUS I DONT WAN TO SELL THIS CAR SO DONT SUGGEST THAT TO ME. thanksNeed Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?You'll get a lot of opinions on cars, and mine from years of experience is not to go to the national chain store franchises like Midas, Goodyear, Firestone, and some others in large metropolitan areas. It's much better in my opinion to get to know some local independent shops you can find below that are recommended by your neighbors. The %26quot;gaurantees%26quot; you get at those chain stores and quickie lubes don't mean much. They end up charging you a lot anyways and less qualified mechanics are generally working on your car. The Ford dealer is a good place to get a diagnosis and quote for engine and transmission problems and let the independent shops do your brake, belts and hoses, exhaust, tires, and suspension work. When a car gets titled in your name at the motor vehicle department, it gets a safety check. If that safety check says your car is ok, then Midas is just trying to make money in my opinion rather than only fix what's needed to be fixed. Preventive maintenance like filter and fluid changes are specified in your owner's manual and are the most important thing for you to spend your money on.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?The rotors are the brake rotors, and your car probably has four, one for each wheel/brake.
As the disc brake pads wear they also slowly wear away the rotors and will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is what drives your alternator, AC, power steering and stuff like that. That shouldn't cost you more than $10-$15 or so at an autoparts store. Don't know where you live, so it's hard to say where to get the parts cheapest, but most garages don't like you bringing in your own parts.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?The rotors are the brake rotors, and your car probably has four, one for each wheel/brake.
As the disc brake pads wear they also slowly wear away the rotors and will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is what drives your alternator, AC, power steering and stuff like that. That shouldn't cost you more than $10-$15 or so at an autoparts store. Don't know where you live, so it's hard to say where to get the parts cheapest, but most garages don't like you bringing in your own parts.
Infiniti help?
how hard is it to change infiniti I35 brake rotors and pads without messing up the abs brakes,I guess its the wear senors and where are they?The shops kill you on repairs and I can do it just never have done abs?I can find good rotors for 71.00 new and the shops charge over 100.00 each plus 189.00 an axle plus 100.00 for dealer pads or about 650.00 I think I can do it for much less.ThanksInfiniti help?you will need to remove the calipers from the caliper mounts(careful with the brake lines, don't drop the calipers), unbolt the rotors from the wheel hub. replace new rotors, install new pads, mount calipers. a little brake cleaner spray. torque all bolts to specified torque.Infiniti help?Yes you can do it for MUCHHHH less - repairs centers are a BUSINESS, not a service.
The sensors are not going to be harmed by you changing the brakes. Don't worry, as long as you don't drop the caliper and let it swing or hit the rotor, you'll be fine.Infiniti help?I'd suggest spending $19.95 on a Chilton's repair manual.
The sensors are not going to be harmed by you changing the brakes. Don't worry, as long as you don't drop the caliper and let it swing or hit the rotor, you'll be fine.Infiniti help?I'd suggest spending $19.95 on a Chilton's repair manual.
Rear Brake Problems on '96 Nissan 240SX?
The rear passenger side brake has been grinding for a while now. I replaced the pads and that didn't fix it. I talked to a mechanic about it and he said it could be that the brakes are not gripping on both sides evenly and rubbing as I drive. Which sounds right to me. When I changed the brake pads the inside( the backside of the rotor), it was down to metal and the front side still had pad left. What is this and how much $ and problem will it be for a rookie shadetree mechanic to fix. If I can get away with NOT changing the calipers too I would rather not because they are about $50 each.Rear Brake Problems on '96 Nissan 240SX?you need new calipers , you just have to suckit up and replace them , make sure the replacements come with the mouts and slidesRear Brake Problems on '96 Nissan 240SX?First you need to see if the rotors are damaged or warped. sometime they can be saved by machining If not they may need to be replaced. If OK then check to see if calipers are working correctly, specifically if engaging the rotor when brake is applied. Also check to insure emergency brake is working and or not interfering.Parameter.Add() ie hosted control
How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?
Hey folks,
I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...
The fact that it does not STOP.
I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.
When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...
The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.
First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.
If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).
As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:
What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).
Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).
Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.
I have a pre-owned Porsche Cayenne Turbo (2004) with Gemballa suspension lowering kit and ECU (500+ hp). Everything is so fine with the car except one simple detail...
The fact that it does not STOP.
I have got changed all four brake rotors, brake pads, checked the hydraulics, replaced every damn liquid in the car, but the stopping power is just not there.
When I hit the road, the brakes are ok, but when I hit the brakes a bit harder, they just start to fade with heat enough to do a blacksmith's work. Now the brakes are still there, but the pedal feels like there were Ronnie Coleman pushing it back and the hydraulics power-assist does not want to assist me in this. Personally, I don't like using the cockpit as a bodybuilding center...
The service says it is my %26quot;driving style%26quot; that causes this. Well, I want to ask what Porsche thought in building a car that goes well over 275km/h but does not return to 0km/h in an equal amount of time. Now, is there a way to stop it?TYHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?The brakes on the Cayenne are quite capable, and from personal experience they have not only adequate stopping ability, but handle heat quite well.
First off, is the service you refer to the Porsche dealer or experienced Porsche mechanics? If not, have someone that genuinely knows these cars to take a look.
If they are, then I would tend to believe that the problem is your driving style. I personally have driven along mountain roads, stuck behind people that clearly don't use their brakes correctly judging from when I see the brake lights. If you are feeding too much heat into the brakes through improper and/or inefficient use, there may still be some measures you can take to minimize this, but the simpler route would be to learn better use of the brakes (it'll be less costly and more effective).
As far as things you can do to battle fade... a new brake kit might help, though I am not sure this will get you much improvement as the stock brakes on the Cayenne Turbo are quite large as is, and if they are overheating, moving to a slightly larger brake that will handle a slight amount more heat will most likely not get you anymore. IN fact, given the size of the stock brakes, if you are having fade, it is most likely due to too much heat in the fluid or pads... so:
What you might consider is a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. Castrol SRF is the best in this area at the moment, though quite costly and I think it has a slightly spongy feel under hard use. Motul is a close second, with ATE Blue coming in next (which would be a definite upgrade and is probably the most readily available of the three).
Likewise, moving away from stock pads... most of your more aggressive pad compounds are formulated to handle more heat. Look for something that maintains a good CF at high temperatures (though make sure they have a good CF at lower temps as well).
Lastly, taking the dust shields off will add more cooling.How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Look for carbon made brake pads. Carbon brakes are not affected by heat. In fact they produce more friction as temperature rises. Carbon brakes are now widely used on heavy and widebody aircrafts such as b747 and A380. Another advantage is carbon brake pads weighs less than conventional brake pads.
Report Abuse
How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Maybe Brembo brake kitHow can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?Try calling a local Porsche dealership or shop. And then ask them, (or see if you can get in contact with the original owner, as they may know what's wrong)How can I stop a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?replace All Brake Parts Put Some High End **** In It
Question about brake/brake pad?
Hi, I have a 2006 honda civic LX. About two month ago, I found that whenever I step/push the brake, there would be some noises coming out from the car. I was thinking it might be time for me to change the brake pads as my car has now 85000 miles on it. (And I know that when the brake pads are worn seriously, there will be some noise coming out) However, after neglecting the noise for a few weeks, I now only hear the noise once a long while...so I am not sure wt's going on and what I should do. If the brake pads are really worn out, shouldn't that noise coutinue until I replace the brake pads?
Btw, if in case I do need to change the brake pads, do I also need to change the disc or re-surface the disc? how about rotor?...I am not good at car and I totally have no idea whatelse would need to repair/replace together with the brake pads.
Any opinion would be appreciated. thanksQuestion about brake/brake pad?The occasional squeaking your hearing is usually caused from what's called %26quot;Glaze%26quot; on your rotors. It squeaks because of the material your pads are made of becomes embedded in the rotors over time. Usually the squeak will be heard when the pads haven't heated up yet and/or under light brake application. The cure would be to either live with it until you actually do need the pads changed, or change them now. Honda rotors can be machined but the labor to do so costs almost as much as the price of a new rotor these days. You don't have to go to a dealer to have the brake work done, although if you do Honda dealerships do use the best parts for your car. You can take your car to a privately owned shop that uses quality pads and rotors and get the same job done and at a lot cheaper price. Ask family or friends who services their cars for them and you should be able to find an experienced, hopefully honest shop. Good luck and hope this helps.Question about brake/brake pad?Maybe a very dry bushingQuestion about brake/brake pad?Your life is riding on these brakes. From your question, it's obvious that you need to take the car to a qualified repair shop. Brakes are not a job for a %26quot;first-timer%26quot;.Question about brake/brake pad?If you are %26quot;not good at car%26quot;, you need to get it to a reputable brake shop for an inspection. Don't put your life and that of those who ride with you at risk by attempting a job you are not qualified to do.Question about brake/brake pad?Pull the wheels from the car and find out if the pads are worn, this car will have a squeal tab on each wheel, so you should know if they are worn. Also, before you take the wheel off, see if you can wiggle it, it should have very little to no wiggle.
If you need new pads ALWAYS resurface the rotor or you will be defeating the purpose and it will squeal like a madman. On this civic, try to use only ceramic or semi-metallic pads, NEVER organic (they tend to do very poorly and don't last long). Hope this helps you.
Btw, if in case I do need to change the brake pads, do I also need to change the disc or re-surface the disc? how about rotor?...I am not good at car and I totally have no idea whatelse would need to repair/replace together with the brake pads.
Any opinion would be appreciated. thanksQuestion about brake/brake pad?The occasional squeaking your hearing is usually caused from what's called %26quot;Glaze%26quot; on your rotors. It squeaks because of the material your pads are made of becomes embedded in the rotors over time. Usually the squeak will be heard when the pads haven't heated up yet and/or under light brake application. The cure would be to either live with it until you actually do need the pads changed, or change them now. Honda rotors can be machined but the labor to do so costs almost as much as the price of a new rotor these days. You don't have to go to a dealer to have the brake work done, although if you do Honda dealerships do use the best parts for your car. You can take your car to a privately owned shop that uses quality pads and rotors and get the same job done and at a lot cheaper price. Ask family or friends who services their cars for them and you should be able to find an experienced, hopefully honest shop. Good luck and hope this helps.Question about brake/brake pad?Maybe a very dry bushingQuestion about brake/brake pad?Your life is riding on these brakes. From your question, it's obvious that you need to take the car to a qualified repair shop. Brakes are not a job for a %26quot;first-timer%26quot;.Question about brake/brake pad?If you are %26quot;not good at car%26quot;, you need to get it to a reputable brake shop for an inspection. Don't put your life and that of those who ride with you at risk by attempting a job you are not qualified to do.Question about brake/brake pad?Pull the wheels from the car and find out if the pads are worn, this car will have a squeal tab on each wheel, so you should know if they are worn. Also, before you take the wheel off, see if you can wiggle it, it should have very little to no wiggle.
If you need new pads ALWAYS resurface the rotor or you will be defeating the purpose and it will squeal like a madman. On this civic, try to use only ceramic or semi-metallic pads, NEVER organic (they tend to do very poorly and don't last long). Hope this helps you.
How to do brake repair for ford 1992 f150?
I'd like to find a site or get some help. i'd like to change the rotors and pads myself on my ford 1992 f150 but the manual lockouts for the fourwheel drive are in the way and I dont want to mess them up. HELP PleaseHow to do brake repair for ford 1992 f150?This is a tough question - F-150's had two hub styles, and for some dumb reason, the brakes are totally different. Here's what we need to know:
Do you have Ford manual hubs with no screws around the perimeter (oddball), or do you have aftermarket manual hubs with screws around the perimeter, that look like they'd also fit a Jeep or a Chevrolet.
Either way, you could probably find both answers in a half-decent manual.
Do you have Ford manual hubs with no screws around the perimeter (oddball), or do you have aftermarket manual hubs with screws around the perimeter, that look like they'd also fit a Jeep or a Chevrolet.
Either way, you could probably find both answers in a half-decent manual.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)