How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?

just replaced pads and rotors on front, now drivers side rotor gets way hot,smokes anyone know what i did wrong? ive changed pads and rotors a few times and never had any problems.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?well if u never opened up the bleeder you should not have to bleed the brakes at all. If your rotors are smoking after u used them a few times and getting too hot i would check to make sure your slides are working. take the caliper off again make sure both of the slide pins are not frozen or one is not frozen. Also, make sure your brake hoses are good, sometimes they can collapse inside and not let fluid come back and keep your piston held down. So if you don't have bad slide pins i would go with a brake hose.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?did the slides move freely? did the piston push in freely? you may need to replace the caliper and hoseHow to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?caliper seize up. you need to replace it or rebuild it.its your choice.or brake hose collapse.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?sounds like the caliper (the part that moves in and out and holds the pad, is locked in the out position. doesn't sound like you need to bleed the brakes. you only need to do that if you've compromised the system and lost fluid and or let air into the system. take that wheel off and work on getting the caliper to go in and out (back) like it should. maybe the pad isn't setting in it's place correctly and is jammed up against the rotor. without getting the pad wet why not try some wd-40 in there to see if that will help. then wipe the excess off. make sure you can see it going out and then returning in.

What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?

'00 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder, 2.0 Engine Front Wheel Drive.



I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from, but the problems continue. Could these two parts be what is causing the 2 problems if not what could it be? Thanks.



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http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are toasted on the control arms, you need new arms. Those bushings can't be replaced. They are an integral part of the arm. The sway bar link would not be the problem. Someone trying to squeeze more money out of you. Also, replace the entire shaft and on both sides. Not just the half shaft.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?If those bushings are worn that could definitely lead to a uneven/rough ride... and either way wouldn't hurt to replace them, specifically the control arms.What is Wrong Here, Hard to find problem?if you havent already check to see if a rim could be bent or even check the tires to make sure they are balanced

What is Wrong Here in Ford Car?

'00 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder, 2.0 Engine Front Wheel Drive.



I have a problem where my car vibrates on the freeways and if l'm just driving on the streets, I can hear a low grinding sound... I was told I needed the sway bar links, transmission mounts %26amp; Motor mounts and lower control arms replaced. I have just replaced The Transmission %26amp; engine mounts last year. The sway bar links are covered with grease and the round ends have exposed metal. They said the rubber parts on the lower control arms where worn out. I posted pictures here so you can see the area's I'm talking about. The control arms look like they are lifted or seperated when the car is on the ground, is this how it suppose to look? the transmission is a little too close to the frame, is that normal? Also I posted a picture of the cv because it shows a part that is like a gear, don't know if that's how it suppose to be. It's alot because I tried to get different views. I have changed the cv half shaft, wheel bearing, brake pads %26amp; rotors, and tires, on the side were the vibrating is coming from. Could this be what is causing the 2 problemS? . Thanks.



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http://cossiomotorservice.com/Images/P10What is Wrong Here in Ford Car?the trans-axle is usually about 1/4 inch from frame, just make sure it doesn't rub, could have bad hub bearingWhat is Wrong Here in Ford Car?The %26quot;gear%26quot; is the ABS brake sensor wheel. That is used to read whether the wheel is turning or the brakes locked up in a skid. That is most liely not your problem unless you feel the brakes pulsing. Take it to a mechanic at this point. Look at how much you spent for no reason.

How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?

My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.

Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.

First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?

Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?

Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.

Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?

96 accord, lx, 4 cylinder, auto. 162,000 miles



I have barely had my car for one year, and have replaced brake pads, rotors, left ball joint, given it a tune-up, had the valves de-carboned and adjusted, and have also replaced the radiator, EGR valve, fuel filter, IAC valve, and ignition coil. when I took it in somewhere to check about a bad sounding brake, they told me the pads are aftermarket, but everything is otherwise fine. However, they said they found a leak at the rear main seal, and have quoted me $840 to fix that. Other shops thought the small oil leak was coming from the oil pan gasket, but these guys did a more specific check on such things.



Anyway, I've paid a ridiculous amount of money to fix this car up. Everyone says the engine and transmission seam to be fine, and that it's a car with a good life ahead of it, but I'm really worried. This is an expensive repair, and I also need to change the timing belt and water pump in the next 10k miles. My struts are also worn, though I hear they can be a home-job. My car has it's quirks, I'm just terrified of having to put more and more money into this thing. I said %26quot;one more repair%26quot; some five repairs ago



How much would it cost to replace the rear main seal? I know a lot of stuff has to be removed to reach it, but the damn part is only $20 and I have a hard time thinking I'd really be paying $820 in labor. Also, I need to know if 162k miles sounds normal for such a repair. I don't know if these things go bad at regular intervals or whether the people who owned the car before me ran it rough (they sure didn't bother to change much!)



I will probably call some shops around and see what they quote, but I'd like to see what other people say as wellCost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?The transmission has to come out to change the seal but still $800 seems like a lot. Get an estimate from independent mechanics. You don't have to go to the dealer. I would consider getting an engine from a salvage yard with less miles on it and many such yards will do the labor and provide the engine for less than $800.



Use has little to do with seal leaking. Seals can dry out and shrink over time due to various factors and start leaking. If the leak isn't bad, maybe you can live with it? Years ago there was a problem with compatibility issues between some synthetic oils and conventional oils and if you used synthetic oil and then switched to conventional it could result in leaking seals. Since your vehicle is 14 years old, who knows? this could be a contributing factor. However the compatibility problem has reportedly been solved for some time and should not be a problem with any name brand oils.



I know this is not a solution but something to consider. Personally If it was me I would seriously consider one of 2 options 1. changing the engine to one with less miles that will not need a timing belt for a while or 2. Giving up on this loss and look for another vehicle.Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?I can't believe this question is considered %26quot;resolved%26quot; with these answers and won't allow me to %26quot;answer%26quot;. Go to a site that specializes in Honda Accords like CB7tuner.com, cb5tuner.com, or HondaHookup and post your question, you will get better answers. The repair probably isn't even necessary.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?(continued)



If the leak is small there's no hurry. And there's no certainty *at all* that the leak derives from the rear main oil seal in the first place as you really can't tell without taking the tranny off. There's no %26quot;diagnostic%26quot; that will tell.



I will agree, do not got to the dealership.

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Cost to replace the rear main seal on a 96 accord?you are wasting your money on the car it is clearly a lemon and I would not be surprised if either it had been neglected or the mileage is way over what you believe, the leak is more likely from the gasket but topping up with oil is by far the cheapest option

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How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?

I drive a 1999 corolla with 116,000 miles on it. I recently just replaced the brake pads and after that it started having these high-pitched screeching noises like nails on a chalkboard. I've been researching online and many people say it's the pads, but I've just replaced it 2 months ago. So what's causing this matter? I believe it's happening in my front brakes. I looked at the brakes and there are some brown rust on it. Should I take out the wheels and clean it with a metal wired scrub and some brake cleaning sprays? I know nothing about cars or brakes except there's the rotor part, disc part, and pad part...I took it to the mechanic and he changed the pads, should I change the rotor ad disc too?How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?http://lmgtfy.com/?q=screeching+brakes



I'd bother writing it up....but you could have figured it out on your own.How do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?its the brake pads that why there are different price for the pads different materials they are made of and some have silencer sprayed on the back of the pads to stop the noiseHow do I fix screeching high pitch brakes when braking?check the clips as well as the brake pads. sometimes those clips will rub on the rotor which will cause that. also pull the wheels and take a rag soak it in brake cleaner and out it on the rotor front and back and spin the axle with the rag on it to clean the front and rear of the brake rotor. try that and if nothing else deal with it.

Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??

I have a purchased new Honda and I had the brakes serviced at one of the chain brake service companies for Squealing at about 20k miles. Now it is at about 50k and it is squealing again. Brought it back to one of the chain's that services brakes same chain different locale and they had some different news other then the usual %26quot;pads needed to be changed.%26quot; They said the pads are fine but there are %26quot;hot spots%26quot; on the rotors, they went on to explain it was the calipers that were faulty and that they are sticking causing the hot spots hence rotor break down. They said I shouldbrign the car to the dealship to have it serviced because it was originally the fault of the calipers being faulty and it the cost should be free. Well I went to Honda and a service advicor said it was not the calipers but the pads that the particular Brake service company uses. %26quot;Just Brakes%26quot; Honda said that the pads are causing the hot spots because of the hardness of their pads.

How do I find resolution???Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think they are both wrong. Hard pads will wear the rotors faster but not cause hot spots. And at 50k miles its hard to belive that both calipers are going bad unless someone contaminated the fluid ( the rubber in the cap for the brake fluid will be swollen and falling apart). If it was me I would buy new rotors and decent pads from the parts store and replace myself or take my own pars to shop of choice. Also try giving your self more time to stop. Both pads and rotors will last longer.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??Listen to honda hard brakes are cheap and not worth the money. Generally they do more damage than goodHonda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I would like to be able to tell you that it was one or the other one's fault,but I can't because they both could be right.Want it gets down to is that neither one wants to do it free of charge.They just want to blame each otrher for the problem.Best thing to do is to take the rotors and have them turned for about $15. bucks each,then buy some new brake pads and be done with it .Good day to you.Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??You can buy new rotors for just $20 each from your local auto parts store.



Installing them is relatively easy. Just jack up your car onto jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the caliper bolts, the caliper and mount, and finally the old rotor. Then install the new rotor and work your way backwards to complete the job.



This also gives you an opportunity to inspect the claims of what all these peepz have said and judge for yourself whom to trust or always be safe by just fixing it yourself.



Good luck!Honda Civic 2007 lx 4dr Brake Calipers sticking? or are the pads too hard? Who is right??I think at 50,000 miles you are out of luck with the dealer warrantying your brakes. Hot spots can be caused by panic stops or excessive hard braking. At 50,000 miles I do not anticipate caliper problems, other than slide pins sticking. Slide pins can be cleaned and lubricated without replacing the whole caliper assembly. I suspect this is the problem. If the rotors have been heated up, I recommend replacing them with the brake pad and caliper slide pin service. Cleaning the caliper slide pins is part of the brake service at most reputable repair facilities, only expect an extra charge if the caliper boots need to come off and be replaced as part of this service. I would expect an additional $40.00 to replace the boots and hone out the caliper slide pin slots.