Theres a lot of life in the brake pads and the brakes seem to work fine in doing what they do, its just that at the very end, right before the car comes to a complete halt, no matter how lightly i apply the brakes, it stops suddenly with a crunching noise. it sounds as if the brake pads squeeze the rotors too hard or something. it sounds as if it needs to be lubricated somewhere. This will also occur when I change gears and I have my foot on the brake. Thanks in advance!When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?I just had a similar situation happen two weeks ago. It could be brake pads -- which could be like $150. If it has damaged the rotors, you are looking at something more like $450 - $600. One thing you should check is if there has been a recall on the brakes. I have a Ford 500 with 65,000 miles on it -- but because of the recall, I didn't pay a penny. I am usually not that lucky -- believe me!!!
Either way, get it in and checked. The longer you wait -- the more likely the problem will be bigger -- and more costly. Plus the safety issue of just having your brakes work properly.
Good luck.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?May I suggest you buy a new car lol xxWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?Sounds like you could have dirt or some sort of debris stuck in between your rotors %26amp; brake padsWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?No idea, sorry... Try going to a mechanic... High prices, thoughWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?Sounds like your rotor or shoe is bad. Go to a good mechanic if you have one that gives you a free brake inspection.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?it sounds to me like the brake caliper on your car may be loose. get a prybar and try to shift it back and forth, if it moves at all then that's your problem.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?Mine did something like that a while back, ended up being that the break pads or whatever they are attached to was on too tight.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?Do you know for sure that all of your brakes are in good condition. It sounds like the rear which in most cases are drum with shoes are in bad shape. If you have all wheel disk brakes than ?? If you have front disk and rear drum then check above.
Friday, June 3, 2011
I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?
The warning just came on yestaday so Im sure its nothin major.Should I change my rotors and pads?What are the best type of pads and rotors for Benzs?I need Service B soon, will the dealership fix this problem if I take it to them to get serviced?How much does a Service B check up cost at the dealership?I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?You guessed it.
PepBoys is the place to go!
Your a really smart chap!
At the dealer it will cost you around $310.00 for that inspection service
Pep Boys just needs to swap your pads.I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?I'm not sure of any of the costs but you need to take it to the dealer. there is a reset that the dealer needs to do. i am a mechanic that just had this problem with my shop owners car. when i looked it up on All data it warned of this reset. Do Not attempt to do it yourself. we ended up taking my bosses car to the dealer.hair highlights guys for the advice
TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?You guessed it.
PepBoys is the place to go!
Your a really smart chap!
At the dealer it will cost you around $310.00 for that inspection service
Pep Boys just needs to swap your pads.I just got the brake liner malfunction warning in my 2002 Benz E30, should I go 2 the dealer,pepboys,autozone?I'm not sure of any of the costs but you need to take it to the dealer. there is a reset that the dealer needs to do. i am a mechanic that just had this problem with my shop owners car. when i looked it up on All data it warned of this reset. Do Not attempt to do it yourself. we ended up taking my bosses car to the dealer.
Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?
2000 Ford Contour SE front wheel drive. 4 cylinder (save the jokes, i know its not the best)... How do you know or what symptoms do you have when the gears in the transmission that work with the CV half shaft are worn out or messed up? I have this problem...
when I accelerate to go on the freeway or when I'm coming to a stop the left side starts to vibrate, I can hear %26amp; feel something grinding...
I have changed the tires, rotors,brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts, and it still does that. I'm about to change the CV half shaft on the left side, I have been to about 6-7 different shops and none could figure it out, they just gave me a guess and one said wait for it to get worst....I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007.....Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?a cv joint will make a clicking sound the loudest moving with the wheels turned all the way
when I accelerate to go on the freeway or when I'm coming to a stop the left side starts to vibrate, I can hear %26amp; feel something grinding...
I have changed the tires, rotors,brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts, and it still does that. I'm about to change the CV half shaft on the left side, I have been to about 6-7 different shops and none could figure it out, they just gave me a guess and one said wait for it to get worst....I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007.....Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?a cv joint will make a clicking sound the loudest moving with the wheels turned all the way
79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?
I want to get bigger rims and with the stock rotors the braking system will look anemic my question is Can i just change the rotors and add bigger ones and leave everything else in the braking system stock ?also what size would I have to look for? i know the bolt patteren is 4.5 x 5, when I change it would I also be able to use stock pads ? how hard is it to install?79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?If larger diameter rotors are installed, the calipers and caliper supports will also have to be replaced.79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?To perfom the up-grades that you want to do, and not having any idea what to do, I think you should take the car to a performance shop.79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?You will need to buy a complete setup.
Because you are buying the for cosmetic reasons, anything with stock braking power or better will do.
Wilwood has some complete setups that look good with open mag wheels -%26gt; http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Informati
Brembo makes pretty one's, but they dont make them for vehicles this old.
Stainless Steel Brake company also makes some, but they arent as flashy. You can find them on summitt's website here -%26gt; http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?Chryslers had plenty of brakes from the factory... to stop them
(unlike the early Mustangs and Cougars)
I strictly the looks of the car is the concern may I suggest you get some brake to wheel backing plate shields... (like the ones sold thru J C Whitney)
they keep brake dust off your rims and hide the caloper and rotors etc from view...'
you can save money and put it else where like special vented rotors and upgraded pad %26amp; shoe linings, braided steel brake lines and etc.
this will not only save you a lot of money but headaches as well
Walt
Because you are buying the for cosmetic reasons, anything with stock braking power or better will do.
Wilwood has some complete setups that look good with open mag wheels -%26gt; http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Informati
Brembo makes pretty one's, but they dont make them for vehicles this old.
Stainless Steel Brake company also makes some, but they arent as flashy. You can find them on summitt's website here -%26gt; http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.79 chrysler cordoba disc brake replacement?Chryslers had plenty of brakes from the factory... to stop them
(unlike the early Mustangs and Cougars)
I strictly the looks of the car is the concern may I suggest you get some brake to wheel backing plate shields... (like the ones sold thru J C Whitney)
they keep brake dust off your rims and hide the caloper and rotors etc from view...'
you can save money and put it else where like special vented rotors and upgraded pad %26amp; shoe linings, braided steel brake lines and etc.
this will not only save you a lot of money but headaches as well
Walt
I need Car Tuner help?
I have a 2008 ford fusion and i plan on changing a number of things on the car, first i will start with H%26amp;R coilovers, then change my brake rotors along with the brake pads. Then i will be installing a rear and front sway bars and also a new 3d Carbon body kit, and i will be installing a front wind splitter from ADR design. Last but not least a SCT cailbrator and new air intake, along with a new set of Vossen wheels 20 inches, my question and problem....possibly, are the wheels, they weight 30 pounds and im worried they are gona to offset the work im doing to the car. The current 16 inch wheels on my car weight in at 22 pounds, finally my question is does anyone know if the wheels are really going to bring down my performance? If so how bad? by the way i have a i4 engine, 2.3 L. I dont wana spend money on forged wheels, but any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks AllI need Car Tuner help?Someone has been watching too many Fast and Furious movies.
All the mods that you are choosing to do are not going to make the car any faster. It is all for looks. Let me break it down for you.
The coilovers, rotors and sway bars will make the car handle better, but it will not make it any faster.
The windsplitter will not do anything to help you unless you are going over 120mph, which I bet is the top speed of that car anyway. So that thing is useless.
The cold air intake and SCT Tune might....MIGHT.... give you 15-20 horsepower. Maybe.
The carbon fiber body kit is not going to do anything but piss you off. Aftermarket body kits never fit the car properly and break very easily.
Now to the rims. Good luck getting 20 inch rims to fit on the car with coilovers. 20s are the biggest wheels that will fit on that car. However, if you put coil overs on then you will certainly end up lowering the car. If you do that, then you will not be able to fit the 20s on there unless you set the ride height of the car back to stock thus defeating the purpose of all the suspension mods that you did.
Will the wheels hurt your performance...yes. The added weight will slow the car down....slightly. You won't be able to feel it. It will be the equivalent to losing about 3 horsepower. Those big wheels will also make the car handle worse and will offset all the suspension modifications you did. I would not go with anything bigger than an 18 inch rim.I need Car Tuner help?All that on a fusion?
All the mods that you are choosing to do are not going to make the car any faster. It is all for looks. Let me break it down for you.
The coilovers, rotors and sway bars will make the car handle better, but it will not make it any faster.
The windsplitter will not do anything to help you unless you are going over 120mph, which I bet is the top speed of that car anyway. So that thing is useless.
The cold air intake and SCT Tune might....MIGHT.... give you 15-20 horsepower. Maybe.
The carbon fiber body kit is not going to do anything but piss you off. Aftermarket body kits never fit the car properly and break very easily.
Now to the rims. Good luck getting 20 inch rims to fit on the car with coilovers. 20s are the biggest wheels that will fit on that car. However, if you put coil overs on then you will certainly end up lowering the car. If you do that, then you will not be able to fit the 20s on there unless you set the ride height of the car back to stock thus defeating the purpose of all the suspension mods that you did.
Will the wheels hurt your performance...yes. The added weight will slow the car down....slightly. You won't be able to feel it. It will be the equivalent to losing about 3 horsepower. Those big wheels will also make the car handle worse and will offset all the suspension modifications you did. I would not go with anything bigger than an 18 inch rim.I need Car Tuner help?All that on a fusion?
Mazda Miata brake noise?
I have a 2001 Mazda Miata. I just had my brake pads changed and now they squeal when I stop. I called the service tech today who said he soaked them in anti-squeal compound before putting them on. He suggested stopping hard about 2-3 times in order to wear off the rust on the rotors, which is causing the squeal.
Does this make any sense to anyone? I don't think its the weather, because they squealed in both rain and shine, morning and night, and regardless of how long I've been driving the car.
Any help and suggestions on how to eliminate the squeal would be greatly appreciated.Mazda Miata brake noise?he used cheap brake pads -pure and simple -he should have turned rotors and used a good pad (ceramic) duralast (autozone) and wagner (o'reilly's) both are good pads.foreign cars are known to squeal if cheap stuff are used.Mazda Miata brake noise?replace again tha pads.Mazda Miata brake noise?just keep driving until the new surface of the brakes wears off, it'll be okMazda Miata brake noise?i imagine they used after market pads. these are known to squel. also the pads and roaters are not matched, so they will make sound. get real mazda breaks!
Does this make any sense to anyone? I don't think its the weather, because they squealed in both rain and shine, morning and night, and regardless of how long I've been driving the car.
Any help and suggestions on how to eliminate the squeal would be greatly appreciated.Mazda Miata brake noise?he used cheap brake pads -pure and simple -he should have turned rotors and used a good pad (ceramic) duralast (autozone) and wagner (o'reilly's) both are good pads.foreign cars are known to squeal if cheap stuff are used.Mazda Miata brake noise?replace again tha pads.Mazda Miata brake noise?just keep driving until the new surface of the brakes wears off, it'll be okMazda Miata brake noise?i imagine they used after market pads. these are known to squel. also the pads and roaters are not matched, so they will make sound. get real mazda breaks!
Corolla spongy brakes?
i just changed the front disc brake pads and rotors on my 2000 corolla and the mechanic said the rear drums still have 45% left on them so i didn't have the rear changed. I'm not exactly sure if this problem was present before the brake change or not but i noticed that my brake is really spongy and i have to press it about 90% down to get a good brake response and after 90% it is really stiff and makes it hard for me to judge how hard i am braking before locking the wheels. This is important cause my car lacks ABS. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just to ask them to inspect the brakes? i know there is a 80$ diagnostic charge if no problem is found and im wondering whether i should risk it?Corolla spongy brakes?just drive it it will get betterCorolla spongy brakes?whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.Corolla spongy brakes?you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,pets find a white satin duvet cover
How hard is it to change brakes on a 1998 chevy lumina?
My brakes wore out on my 1998 chevrolet lumina and i will probably need rotors and pads...i would like to know how much im looking at for a shop to do it and if possible could i do it myselfHow hard is it to change brakes on a 1998 chevy lumina?Well its a GM product so it must be bad.... Kidding but it will help to have some of the right tools. If you don't have any of the tools I suggest Autozone and Advanced rent most of this stuff out pretty cheep. Obviously the Caliper needs to be removed from the mounting bracket first and remove the old pads from the retaining clips.You will need a Caliper compressor to push the piston back into the bores for the front disc breaks. Once you have done that you can put brake grease on the back of the pads making sure you get nothing on the friction surface and load them back into the caliper. Clean and grease the guide pins as well so the caliper can move well. Then just bolt it back on and your done with the front.
The Rear is a bit harder. You will need to purchase a break hardware kit with all the springs and a shoe hold down spring tool. The easiest way I have found to remove the springs would be to use a wire coat hanger to just unhook everything. The E Break clip is always a hassle but they sell tools to make it easy but a regular flathead screw driver will work fine to get it off. A pair of pliers to put the knew one on will work fine. Sometimes the hole which the E break rivet goes through needs to be drilled out to fit. Grease the backing plate on the 6 raised bumps where the shoes slide against. Grease and retract the self adjustor and then put everything back the way you found it and your done. It isn't as hard as I probably made it seem but it might be time consuming if its your first time. Make sure before you put the car in gear to pump the breaks about 10 times to be safe otherwise you won't be able to stop. Good luck How hard is it to change brakes on a 1998 chevy lumina?Not hard if you have some basic tools and a little patience. Check out the %26quot;repair guides%26quot; on autozone.com. You will pay a lot more to have a shop do it, probably around $300 with rotors.
The Rear is a bit harder. You will need to purchase a break hardware kit with all the springs and a shoe hold down spring tool. The easiest way I have found to remove the springs would be to use a wire coat hanger to just unhook everything. The E Break clip is always a hassle but they sell tools to make it easy but a regular flathead screw driver will work fine to get it off. A pair of pliers to put the knew one on will work fine. Sometimes the hole which the E break rivet goes through needs to be drilled out to fit. Grease the backing plate on the 6 raised bumps where the shoes slide against. Grease and retract the self adjustor and then put everything back the way you found it and your done. It isn't as hard as I probably made it seem but it might be time consuming if its your first time. Make sure before you put the car in gear to pump the breaks about 10 times to be safe otherwise you won't be able to stop. Good luck How hard is it to change brakes on a 1998 chevy lumina?Not hard if you have some basic tools and a little patience. Check out the %26quot;repair guides%26quot; on autozone.com. You will pay a lot more to have a shop do it, probably around $300 with rotors.
Lot of brake dust on wheels ?
i changed the brake pads on my car about a month ago. i noticed the rotors had real small grooves in them i didn't have them turned and now i have been having a lot of brake dust on the driver side.what i need to know do you think that i have ruined the new pads this soon and how do i check the pads to tell because i was going to buy new rotors and use these pads if i can. Lot of brake dust on wheels ?Most likely you were sucked in to metallic or semi-metallic brake pads which eat brake rotors for desert. They'll be filthy till you burry them in your back yard. Creamic based pads are much cleaner and literally cause no rotor wear.
Personally I was sweating bullets a couple of weeks ago with a rotor and brake pad choice. I tossed on a fresh pair of EBC slotted and dimpled rotors on my own car using Bendix CQ (ceramic) brake pads. In the box with the pads thay warned it would take 500 easy miles of driving to break them in especially with new rotors. Cut a long story short there was a lot of filthy black charcoal dust on the aluminum wheels during the first 300 - 500 miles. At the end of 800 miles I washed the wheels once and no dirt has returned!
It would have been great if you'd have included the name and type of brake pads you installed. There's no real advantage in buying new brake rotors if the origional ones were not pitted, scored or worn undersize. When old rotors are used with new brake pads it pays to rough up both sides of the rotors with a 20 - 40 grit size zerconia flap wheel using a right angle grinder. Use a cheaper 24 -36 grit aluminum ozide paper wheel to knock of the rust near the edges and outside diameters. Use a straight round wire brush wheel in a 3/8 electric drill to clean up the faces of the wheel bearing- stud/hubs and the inside of the rotors. To clean up the reverse side of the rotors, bolt them on the drive hubs inside out using three lug nuts or use 3 hex nuts as spacers to bridge out the lug nuts for clearance purposes.
I'm somewhat conserned there is no brake dust on the passenger side also. Make sure the slider pins are lubricated with synthetic brake grease.Lot of brake dust on wheels ?get new rotors and i dont know what kind of brake pads you bought but if they are semi-metallic then you will always get brake dust......you want to install ceramic premium pads.......brakes are very important and it doesnt pay to go cheap......ceramic pads will cost more but you will be much happier with the quality......no noise and very minimal brake dust....Lot of brake dust on wheels ?it won,t be long until you will be buying new pads. the brake dust is coming off the pads. get new pads and have the rotors turned down. you don,t want to put those pads on new rotors. get new pads so they can get set to the new rotors.
Personally I was sweating bullets a couple of weeks ago with a rotor and brake pad choice. I tossed on a fresh pair of EBC slotted and dimpled rotors on my own car using Bendix CQ (ceramic) brake pads. In the box with the pads thay warned it would take 500 easy miles of driving to break them in especially with new rotors. Cut a long story short there was a lot of filthy black charcoal dust on the aluminum wheels during the first 300 - 500 miles. At the end of 800 miles I washed the wheels once and no dirt has returned!
It would have been great if you'd have included the name and type of brake pads you installed. There's no real advantage in buying new brake rotors if the origional ones were not pitted, scored or worn undersize. When old rotors are used with new brake pads it pays to rough up both sides of the rotors with a 20 - 40 grit size zerconia flap wheel using a right angle grinder. Use a cheaper 24 -36 grit aluminum ozide paper wheel to knock of the rust near the edges and outside diameters. Use a straight round wire brush wheel in a 3/8 electric drill to clean up the faces of the wheel bearing- stud/hubs and the inside of the rotors. To clean up the reverse side of the rotors, bolt them on the drive hubs inside out using three lug nuts or use 3 hex nuts as spacers to bridge out the lug nuts for clearance purposes.
I'm somewhat conserned there is no brake dust on the passenger side also. Make sure the slider pins are lubricated with synthetic brake grease.Lot of brake dust on wheels ?get new rotors and i dont know what kind of brake pads you bought but if they are semi-metallic then you will always get brake dust......you want to install ceramic premium pads.......brakes are very important and it doesnt pay to go cheap......ceramic pads will cost more but you will be much happier with the quality......no noise and very minimal brake dust....Lot of brake dust on wheels ?it won,t be long until you will be buying new pads. the brake dust is coming off the pads. get new pads and have the rotors turned down. you don,t want to put those pads on new rotors. get new pads so they can get set to the new rotors.
New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
I have a 03 Saturn L200. After changing the front Brakes and Rotors went for a quick ride to see how they worked I immediatley was getting this rubbing sound. I am not sure if it is just that the brake pads need to wear a little with the new rotors or If we made a mistake or we were given the wrong parts but it is quite noisy and it is constant. I have driven roughly 10 miles since the new ones were put on. The Brakes work fine but its just when I am driving I am pretty sure the Brake pads ,because they are new a re rubbing against the rotors.
Anyone experience this or have any idea what the problem could be?New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?the only thing I can think of is the calipers are sticking a little and not pulling back far enough, just guessing.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?Since there new wait a week or so they will grind down sometimes the factory's make them ever so slightly big. and they will rub. but they will grind down after a while.
it takes an average of 100 miles to wear in. give or take.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?They are supposed to be in constant contact, but quiet. If it's older your caliper could be sticking and misaligning the pads. I would take it apart and check things out. Make sure there's no crud stuck on the pads. Check the condition of the caliper slides. If they're pitted or not smooth it will wreak havoc. You shouldn't hear anything. A little squeal when applying brakes is normal when new pads heat up and glaze too quickly but sounds like something different in your case. Make sure a pad isn't in backwards.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?well you need to make sure you were given the right pads. if theyre wrong and are thicker than the correct pads, theyll rub. it could be that your caliper is sticking. could be that the pads were not put on straight (level) so one corner of them is rubbing the rotor. there are so many possibilities, its tough to tell exactly. brake pads should NEVER need to %26quot;wear a little%26quot;. start by making sure you were given the right pads and rotors once you confirm that...mechanic? sorry.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?I would jack up the car and re-check your work.Make sure the brake calipers are not sticking,and ALL the caliper and rotor hardware is properly installed (slider pins or wedges,anti rattle clips,caliper bolts,etc).Make sure the rotors are properly seated on the hubs also.
Anyone experience this or have any idea what the problem could be?New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?the only thing I can think of is the calipers are sticking a little and not pulling back far enough, just guessing.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?Since there new wait a week or so they will grind down sometimes the factory's make them ever so slightly big. and they will rub. but they will grind down after a while.
it takes an average of 100 miles to wear in. give or take.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?They are supposed to be in constant contact, but quiet. If it's older your caliper could be sticking and misaligning the pads. I would take it apart and check things out. Make sure there's no crud stuck on the pads. Check the condition of the caliper slides. If they're pitted or not smooth it will wreak havoc. You shouldn't hear anything. A little squeal when applying brakes is normal when new pads heat up and glaze too quickly but sounds like something different in your case. Make sure a pad isn't in backwards.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?well you need to make sure you were given the right pads. if theyre wrong and are thicker than the correct pads, theyll rub. it could be that your caliper is sticking. could be that the pads were not put on straight (level) so one corner of them is rubbing the rotor. there are so many possibilities, its tough to tell exactly. brake pads should NEVER need to %26quot;wear a little%26quot;. start by making sure you were given the right pads and rotors once you confirm that...mechanic? sorry.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?I would jack up the car and re-check your work.Make sure the brake calipers are not sticking,and ALL the caliper and rotor hardware is properly installed (slider pins or wedges,anti rattle clips,caliper bolts,etc).Make sure the rotors are properly seated on the hubs also.
How long to change brakes?
I bought a rotor and a set of brake pads for the front left wheel of a '94 Pathfinder 2WD and don't want to get ripped off by a mechanic. can anyone tell me about how long it should take for them to do that??How long to change brakes?I doubt he would do it in the first place with %26quot;your%26quot; parts.
1) He can't guaranty the quality of the parts you supplied.
2) If he ONLY replaces the parts you supplied, and ONLY replaced them without checking the remaining brake system he's an idiot.
3)Any mechanic that would do only what you wanted, I wouldn't trust to begin with.
But lets just say for the fun of it, he did decide to replace the parts you brought to him and only replaced them, then I'd have to say less than an hour.How long to change brakes?For those of you who said do it myself I would love to. However being confined to a wheelchair due to a recent accident and being a woman all off 100 pounds soaking wet i chose not to. And for the one who said any %26quot;bozo%26quot; can do it--you're the bozo!!
it aint very hard to put pads onHow long to change brakes?look it up in a chiltons manual that is where ive gotten help to do repairs i was unsure of or didnt know how to do beforehand.How long to change brakes?The change will take around 30 min. including bearing grease. Always change brakes in pairs.How long to change brakes?this should not take long 30 min if no problems 1 hour at the most i would change both rotors instead of just 1 and change both wheels brake pads if not the will wear wrong.How long to change brakes?30 minHow long to change brakes?Over the years, when my husband and I were still together, I helped him change the brakes to our vehicles a few times. Between the two of us it took less than 20 min to change the brakes and add just a little longer for the rotor. It took us about another 30 min to change the rotors but we did not have the proper tools. The added time was mostly spent finding tools. At a mechanic, who should have great tools, I don't expect that they would take more than an hour. If it's only one person doing the job, give them an extra 30 min or so. Hope I could help! :)How long to change brakes?a half hour at the most, why would you put brake pads on just 1 wheel?How long to change brakes?Just do it yourself. Any bozo can throw on a rotor and some brake pads. If you can change a flat tire, you can do this.
1) He can't guaranty the quality of the parts you supplied.
2) If he ONLY replaces the parts you supplied, and ONLY replaced them without checking the remaining brake system he's an idiot.
3)Any mechanic that would do only what you wanted, I wouldn't trust to begin with.
But lets just say for the fun of it, he did decide to replace the parts you brought to him and only replaced them, then I'd have to say less than an hour.How long to change brakes?For those of you who said do it myself I would love to. However being confined to a wheelchair due to a recent accident and being a woman all off 100 pounds soaking wet i chose not to. And for the one who said any %26quot;bozo%26quot; can do it--you're the bozo!!
Report Abuse
How long to change brakes?why dont you just jack up the car and do it yourselfit aint very hard to put pads onHow long to change brakes?look it up in a chiltons manual that is where ive gotten help to do repairs i was unsure of or didnt know how to do beforehand.How long to change brakes?The change will take around 30 min. including bearing grease. Always change brakes in pairs.How long to change brakes?this should not take long 30 min if no problems 1 hour at the most i would change both rotors instead of just 1 and change both wheels brake pads if not the will wear wrong.How long to change brakes?30 minHow long to change brakes?Over the years, when my husband and I were still together, I helped him change the brakes to our vehicles a few times. Between the two of us it took less than 20 min to change the brakes and add just a little longer for the rotor. It took us about another 30 min to change the rotors but we did not have the proper tools. The added time was mostly spent finding tools. At a mechanic, who should have great tools, I don't expect that they would take more than an hour. If it's only one person doing the job, give them an extra 30 min or so. Hope I could help! :)How long to change brakes?a half hour at the most, why would you put brake pads on just 1 wheel?How long to change brakes?Just do it yourself. Any bozo can throw on a rotor and some brake pads. If you can change a flat tire, you can do this.
Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
I've basically worn my brake pads down to the bone; my car makes a pretty loud grinding noise everytime I brake, although I haven't noticed any %26quot;spongy%26quot; feeling in the brake pedal or shaking in the wheel. I don't even have to press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when I brake.
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/web design company other
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/
How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?
I want to know about changing just front pads and rotors on this truck. I've only worked on older cars (1979 and earlier), and I've never done a brake job on anything that had ABS or that was 4 wheel drive. Are there any special tools or procedures I need to be aware of?
I'm trying to help someone out and save them some money by doing the work myself instead of sending them to a mechanic. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks.How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?I probably shouldn't be telling you how to do this job, but here it goes. Jack up and support the front of the vehicle, making sure the rear wheels are blocked safely. Remove all eight 21mm wheel nuts on both front wheels. Remove the wheels. Turn front wheels fully to the left. Remove the two 17 or 18mm caliper bolts. Remove the caliper, taking care not to let the caliper hang by the flex hose. You make need to unclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the flex hose clips. With a long johnson bar and 1/2%26quot; drive 21mm socket, loosen and remove the two 21mm brake caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper bracket with the brake pads. Using one of the old brake pads and a pair of channel lock pliers, compress BOTH caliper pistons evenly, until both pistons are bottomed out. With a suitably sized hammer, smash the brake rotor off the hub. Clean the hub surface with sandpaper, and apply a light coat of anti-seize to the hub. Install new brake rotor, and secure rotor to hub temporarily with two wheel nuts. Reinstall the caliper bracket with the new pads and anti-rattle clips. Reinstall the brake caliper. Turn wheel all the way to the right, and repeat entire procedure described. Once all is done, PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO MOVE IT. Torque wheel nuts to 140 ft.-lbs. You do not need to disturb anything with the 4x4 system, or ABS for this job. Nor are any special tools required. Hope this helps.
I'm trying to help someone out and save them some money by doing the work myself instead of sending them to a mechanic. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks.How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?I probably shouldn't be telling you how to do this job, but here it goes. Jack up and support the front of the vehicle, making sure the rear wheels are blocked safely. Remove all eight 21mm wheel nuts on both front wheels. Remove the wheels. Turn front wheels fully to the left. Remove the two 17 or 18mm caliper bolts. Remove the caliper, taking care not to let the caliper hang by the flex hose. You make need to unclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the flex hose clips. With a long johnson bar and 1/2%26quot; drive 21mm socket, loosen and remove the two 21mm brake caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper bracket with the brake pads. Using one of the old brake pads and a pair of channel lock pliers, compress BOTH caliper pistons evenly, until both pistons are bottomed out. With a suitably sized hammer, smash the brake rotor off the hub. Clean the hub surface with sandpaper, and apply a light coat of anti-seize to the hub. Install new brake rotor, and secure rotor to hub temporarily with two wheel nuts. Reinstall the caliper bracket with the new pads and anti-rattle clips. Reinstall the brake caliper. Turn wheel all the way to the right, and repeat entire procedure described. Once all is done, PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO MOVE IT. Torque wheel nuts to 140 ft.-lbs. You do not need to disturb anything with the 4x4 system, or ABS for this job. Nor are any special tools required. Hope this helps.
Ford Ranger question?
how often or at what mileage should you change the brake pads and rotors on a 2001 ranger? ball park what would it cost to have this done? thanksFord Ranger question?I changed front and rear on my 2000 ranger at 90,000 miles. I did it myself for about $130.00 in parts. Labor would be around $2-300 at a garage.Ford Ranger question?Hehe, One of the front rotors was really groovy!!
Most people drive a vehicle until they hear noise when applying the brakes. Most shoes have a wear indicator that will contact the rotor when the pads are too thin. Rotors have a minimum thickness that is usually stamped on the rotor.
I rely on my brakes and demand as perfect as I can obtain. With this is mind I usually do not let the brake pads wear more than 3/4. I will have the rotors trued or turned every 2nd set of shoes. If the rotors get anywhere near minimum thickness I replace them.
If I feel any brake pulse I will take action. A rotor that is warped, causing this, usually means the rotors are bad, are thin, and the pulsing will damage the calipers.
Rotors are far cheaper than calipers. A caliper that hangs up(especially on one front wheel) can cause an accident.
New(good quality) brake pads usually have a long warranty. Some have lifetime warranties. If a vehicle has drum rear brakes periodic adjustment of these will extend the life of front brakes.
With this in mind brake pads should be replaced when they are worn enough to need it. Preventive maintenance is a cure for many problems before they happen.Ford Ranger question?It depends on how hard you use your truck ,like an everyday driver you should get 6 months out of them . or if its alot with towing and hauling you might get 3 months . i myself change mine 2 times a year ,because i do alot of towing and hauling and i have a 93 ranger myself .
Report Abuse
Ford Ranger question?that depends on a few questions like how many miles you drive and how hard you are on them.Ford Ranger question?Get them checked each time you get the oil changed. The longer you let it go, the more it will cost.Ford Ranger question?Rotors last longer with proper maintenance and preventive maintenance on the brake shoes.Most people drive a vehicle until they hear noise when applying the brakes. Most shoes have a wear indicator that will contact the rotor when the pads are too thin. Rotors have a minimum thickness that is usually stamped on the rotor.
I rely on my brakes and demand as perfect as I can obtain. With this is mind I usually do not let the brake pads wear more than 3/4. I will have the rotors trued or turned every 2nd set of shoes. If the rotors get anywhere near minimum thickness I replace them.
If I feel any brake pulse I will take action. A rotor that is warped, causing this, usually means the rotors are bad, are thin, and the pulsing will damage the calipers.
Rotors are far cheaper than calipers. A caliper that hangs up(especially on one front wheel) can cause an accident.
New(good quality) brake pads usually have a long warranty. Some have lifetime warranties. If a vehicle has drum rear brakes periodic adjustment of these will extend the life of front brakes.
With this in mind brake pads should be replaced when they are worn enough to need it. Preventive maintenance is a cure for many problems before they happen.Ford Ranger question?It depends on how hard you use your truck ,like an everyday driver you should get 6 months out of them . or if its alot with towing and hauling you might get 3 months . i myself change mine 2 times a year ,because i do alot of towing and hauling and i have a 93 ranger myself .
What causes a grabbing noise like after changing the front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan?
It was making like a grabbing noise ( don't know how to explain it) every time you stepped on the brakes. Replaced the front brake shoes (which was worn down and needed to be replaced) Took it for a test drive and now that noise is alot louder then what it was before. It is coming from the passenger front side. I noticed on that right side rotor passengers side it had some grooves in the rotor. Which means that the brakes been down to far. But anyway the new shoes should wear in where it shouldn't make any noise but still does. Got over 50 miles on the new brake shoes. Would the wheel bearing be going out on that side? That is my only thought now.What causes a grabbing noise like after changing the front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan?There has been a rash of bad pads on the market recently. Some pads emit a gas when heated up just a little. Essentially Fart ing out between the pads and rotors making a horrible groan at very low speeds.
How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
My front rotors are fine, but the pads are worn down to the point that
they squeak. I am wondering how you compress the pistons that put pressure on the pads to A. Get them off, and B the new pads are thicker, so you have to make room to get them back on somehow.
(I'm too cheap to have a brake job, and know I can do this myself for a lot less)How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?take the cap off the resivour take off the calipers leave the pad on the side with the piston get a large c clamp and screw it in they (the caliper pistons) dont move as easily as some would let you believe but a c-clamp is relativly inexpensive and it will workHow do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Make out you have broken down and call out the AA and they will do it for you.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?An old tried an true method is to remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir (where you add the brake fluid) and just press in on the calipers (the things that push on the brake pads) they should move in relatively easily. Be sure to firmly attach the reservoir cap when done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?My favorite tool for this job is a crowbar. Use the flat end and insert Between the caliper and the piston. Make sure you are pushing on the center of the piston and not on the rubber boot around the outer edge of the piston. Remove the cap from the master cylinder and place a clean dry rag over the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling in while it is open. gently apply pressure to the piston until it is fully seated. Replace the pads. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Press the brake pedal firmly several times to fully seat the piston onto the pads. Replace the tires and wheels and you are done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Just be sure to check your rotors for scoring (the squeel means you might be down to metal), in which case you need to have the rotors turned and a brake shop is your best bet. If you shop around someone will give you a deal. If you must do it yourself, make sure you have transpo in case the parts store gives you the wrong pads. Use good quality pads so they last a while. Use the lubricant they give you in the kit. Use a pry bar to compress the pistons and open the calipers and most important, have a couple of cold beers handy and a bud to chat with while you're wasting double the time it will take the shop to do the job. P.S. If you're married, don't let your wife watch. It will drive both of you crazy.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Just push the pistons in on Both front or both rear which ever side your doing, push them all the way in until they bottom, buy a caliper piston tool, I usually push them in with the old pad to avoid damaging anything.
If it's like a honda I wouldn't do it if I were you, but if its an american car it should be real easy, I would say just go down to the parts store buy New rotors and middle of the road pads, I have found if you put really cheap pads on car they don't last long. If the new rotors cost more than 35 $ I would concider getting them turned if they are not to thin. Only thing to remember is lube end of pads on slides don't lube face of pad make sure both slides that attach to caliper move freely , lube those to.
they squeak. I am wondering how you compress the pistons that put pressure on the pads to A. Get them off, and B the new pads are thicker, so you have to make room to get them back on somehow.
(I'm too cheap to have a brake job, and know I can do this myself for a lot less)How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?take the cap off the resivour take off the calipers leave the pad on the side with the piston get a large c clamp and screw it in they (the caliper pistons) dont move as easily as some would let you believe but a c-clamp is relativly inexpensive and it will workHow do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Make out you have broken down and call out the AA and they will do it for you.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?An old tried an true method is to remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir (where you add the brake fluid) and just press in on the calipers (the things that push on the brake pads) they should move in relatively easily. Be sure to firmly attach the reservoir cap when done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?My favorite tool for this job is a crowbar. Use the flat end and insert Between the caliper and the piston. Make sure you are pushing on the center of the piston and not on the rubber boot around the outer edge of the piston. Remove the cap from the master cylinder and place a clean dry rag over the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling in while it is open. gently apply pressure to the piston until it is fully seated. Replace the pads. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Press the brake pedal firmly several times to fully seat the piston onto the pads. Replace the tires and wheels and you are done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Just be sure to check your rotors for scoring (the squeel means you might be down to metal), in which case you need to have the rotors turned and a brake shop is your best bet. If you shop around someone will give you a deal. If you must do it yourself, make sure you have transpo in case the parts store gives you the wrong pads. Use good quality pads so they last a while. Use the lubricant they give you in the kit. Use a pry bar to compress the pistons and open the calipers and most important, have a couple of cold beers handy and a bud to chat with while you're wasting double the time it will take the shop to do the job. P.S. If you're married, don't let your wife watch. It will drive both of you crazy.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?Just push the pistons in on Both front or both rear which ever side your doing, push them all the way in until they bottom, buy a caliper piston tool, I usually push them in with the old pad to avoid damaging anything.
If it's like a honda I wouldn't do it if I were you, but if its an american car it should be real easy, I would say just go down to the parts store buy New rotors and middle of the road pads, I have found if you put really cheap pads on car they don't last long. If the new rotors cost more than 35 $ I would concider getting them turned if they are not to thin. Only thing to remember is lube end of pads on slides don't lube face of pad make sure both slides that attach to caliper move freely , lube those to.
Chevy s10 owners only please!?
I maintain my truck really well. I get regular oil changes, brake pad and rotor changes and even got a really major oil leak fixed. Is it completely unrealistic to think my 02 truck can last me another 10 years? Also how do they do on long distances? In about a year I'm moving from indianapolis to atlantaChevy s10 owners only please!?Ive had my S-10 for 11 years now and its still running fine.. I just got rid of one (from living in the rust belt) that had 182k miles on it and it ran fine but the body rusted out on it (mainly the bed and the cross members on the bed).. a trip from indianapolis to atlanta is a long ways, but ive taken mine from Erie, PA, out to Helena, Montana with moderate stops to eat and use the bathroom.Chevy s10 owners only please!?I know a person that has 1000,000,000 miles on a chevy pick-up yes if maintaned properly it can last a long time fastest way to get rid of blackheads no head control
Report Abuse
Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
I changed the front rotors and pads in my 02' Prizm myself, with great success. I just researched how the pads, rotors and calipers work together and how they are housed and bam I bought a couple jack stands, and a jack and I changed my front disc brakes for the first time, taking about 1.5 hrs. Now this car has drum brakes in the back, and I wanted to know how much harder is that to replace for someone like me you think? I now know how drum system's work, and have all the tools to change the brakes, but i wanna get an idea of what i should be expecting. Also if you have done this, is there any advice you would give me? Thanks!Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?Take a picture of the shoes, springs and all the other stuff BEFORE you take it apart.
You can do it.
Got a spring brake tool?
And retainer tool?
You can do it without them, but it's a bugger getting it all back together.
Oh, and a brake adjuster spoon too.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?If you are doing it for the first time it is best to jack up both sides of the car and set on jack stands pull both wheels and drums and use one side as a reference to put the other side back together a few more parts than the front pads but it is easy to do. This is how i learned many many years ago.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?I agree, do one side at a time and use the other as a reference. Its not as easy as disc brakes but you should be able to figure it out. Plan on it taking longer than a few hours your first time Good luck!Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?You'll need a few drum brake tools - a tool to release and reinstall the springs and a tool to install the keepers against the shoes.
Disassemble one side at a time and lay the springs out on the floor in the position that you removed them. It's good to have the other side as a guide if you get confused (keep in mind, it's a mirror image - left to right is reversed).
Put a little dab of grease on the tabs where the shoes ride against the backing plate, check the self adjuster for proper operation, slap the drum back on and you should be good to go.
If the pedal seems lower than usual, try tapping the brake while you back up - this will self adjust the brakes.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?its a pain in the *** getting it back together..disc brakes are a breeze compared to drums. need a spring tool of course. also when putting the drum back on the shoes mess with the star wheel to get the shoes to just be scraping the drum by a hair. good luckAre changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?Easier if you are just going to change the drums, just take the old one off and replace it with the new one. But if you are talking about doing the whole back break system, then yes it can be, only because you have to take it a part and put it back together the right way. If you know how it works then you have it half beat.
The only thing I can tell you that will make a difference is that, you should take your time and clean every thing as clean as possible.
Make sure you clean or replace the masters as well as the shoes of course and make sure to bleed the entire system when you are done starting with the one that is farthest from the master break cylinder in the engine compartment which will be the right rear wheel.
Good luck....peace....
You can do it.
Got a spring brake tool?
And retainer tool?
You can do it without them, but it's a bugger getting it all back together.
Oh, and a brake adjuster spoon too.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?If you are doing it for the first time it is best to jack up both sides of the car and set on jack stands pull both wheels and drums and use one side as a reference to put the other side back together a few more parts than the front pads but it is easy to do. This is how i learned many many years ago.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?I agree, do one side at a time and use the other as a reference. Its not as easy as disc brakes but you should be able to figure it out. Plan on it taking longer than a few hours your first time Good luck!Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?You'll need a few drum brake tools - a tool to release and reinstall the springs and a tool to install the keepers against the shoes.
Disassemble one side at a time and lay the springs out on the floor in the position that you removed them. It's good to have the other side as a guide if you get confused (keep in mind, it's a mirror image - left to right is reversed).
Put a little dab of grease on the tabs where the shoes ride against the backing plate, check the self adjuster for proper operation, slap the drum back on and you should be good to go.
If the pedal seems lower than usual, try tapping the brake while you back up - this will self adjust the brakes.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?its a pain in the *** getting it back together..disc brakes are a breeze compared to drums. need a spring tool of course. also when putting the drum back on the shoes mess with the star wheel to get the shoes to just be scraping the drum by a hair. good luckAre changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?Easier if you are just going to change the drums, just take the old one off and replace it with the new one. But if you are talking about doing the whole back break system, then yes it can be, only because you have to take it a part and put it back together the right way. If you know how it works then you have it half beat.
The only thing I can tell you that will make a difference is that, you should take your time and clean every thing as clean as possible.
Make sure you clean or replace the masters as well as the shoes of course and make sure to bleed the entire system when you are done starting with the one that is farthest from the master break cylinder in the engine compartment which will be the right rear wheel.
Good luck....peace....
Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
I have had my 92 Saturn SL2 since 2003. I bought it from a small dealership in California (I live in Michigan now). It said 152,000 miles on it but the dealer said a newer engine was put in it to pass the smog test (I never found out how many miles were on the newer engine, plus, the mileage stopped working at 172,000 miles).
Today the mechanic said I need brake pads and rotors ($170 parts/labor) and struts ($210-$280 parts/labor). SHOULD I GET THIS DONE?
I've already gotten so much fixed such as radiator, timing chain, tie rod, alternator, battery, serpentine belt, etc, over the years.
I also have an oil leak under the car - they showed it to me during the oil change (I'm not worried about this repair yet). The car idles high sometimes. Sometimes I have to %26quot;rev%26quot; the gas for it to start, and sometimes in neutral it makes the %26quot;put put%26quot; sound like it might cut off.
If I don't get repairs, then I would just drive the car AS-IS for a few more months.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?Well brakes are a matter of safety and struts are a matter of comfort and handling. I've always tried to get safety fixes done right away.
You need to have a mechanic that you trust go through the car and prioritize a list of repairs that the car needs and what the consequences of deferring each repair is.
New cars means a car loan so it's actually a fair bit of maintenance before a new car makes sense. If you set aside the money that you would spend on a car loan each month, you'll soon find enough money there to repair your car and have a tidy sum for emergencies. It's a good idea to develop the discipline to set money aside, some banks allow for subaccounts so that you can create virtual accounts within your account and effectively tag your money for various purposes.
If you tally up all the repairs that you've done and divide it by the number of months that you've had the car and that average is higher than a new car payment then you're probably better off with a new car. You could get really fancy and plot the monthly expenditures on a graph and fit a straight line or an exponential line to it in order to estimate future repair costs.
If you do want a new car, those Chrysler dealerships are desperate to unload stock in TX cause a state law prohibits them from selling new vehicles once they loose their franchise but they've already paid for their new stock. They basically have to sell everything they have in the next week or they won't be able to sell at all.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?Get a new car.. stop letting that be your money's quicksand. You can find a much better car for a decent amount of money. All used cars have problems... but stop throwing your money away! I just had to let go of my crappy old Taurus that was my money's quicksand. Sucks... and now i've gotten myself in a whole nother can of worms... but oh well. I at least know my car is going to safely get my from point A to point B!Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?You are at that fine point where new car payments and insurance may be worth the peace of mind. Ford, GM, and Hyundai have payment rescue plans in case you lose your job, so I'd shop there. If you don't like to shop for a car, and are a AAA member, they have a really good auto buying program you should check out.
Today the mechanic said I need brake pads and rotors ($170 parts/labor) and struts ($210-$280 parts/labor). SHOULD I GET THIS DONE?
I've already gotten so much fixed such as radiator, timing chain, tie rod, alternator, battery, serpentine belt, etc, over the years.
I also have an oil leak under the car - they showed it to me during the oil change (I'm not worried about this repair yet). The car idles high sometimes. Sometimes I have to %26quot;rev%26quot; the gas for it to start, and sometimes in neutral it makes the %26quot;put put%26quot; sound like it might cut off.
If I don't get repairs, then I would just drive the car AS-IS for a few more months.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?Well brakes are a matter of safety and struts are a matter of comfort and handling. I've always tried to get safety fixes done right away.
You need to have a mechanic that you trust go through the car and prioritize a list of repairs that the car needs and what the consequences of deferring each repair is.
New cars means a car loan so it's actually a fair bit of maintenance before a new car makes sense. If you set aside the money that you would spend on a car loan each month, you'll soon find enough money there to repair your car and have a tidy sum for emergencies. It's a good idea to develop the discipline to set money aside, some banks allow for subaccounts so that you can create virtual accounts within your account and effectively tag your money for various purposes.
If you tally up all the repairs that you've done and divide it by the number of months that you've had the car and that average is higher than a new car payment then you're probably better off with a new car. You could get really fancy and plot the monthly expenditures on a graph and fit a straight line or an exponential line to it in order to estimate future repair costs.
If you do want a new car, those Chrysler dealerships are desperate to unload stock in TX cause a state law prohibits them from selling new vehicles once they loose their franchise but they've already paid for their new stock. They basically have to sell everything they have in the next week or they won't be able to sell at all.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?Get a new car.. stop letting that be your money's quicksand. You can find a much better car for a decent amount of money. All used cars have problems... but stop throwing your money away! I just had to let go of my crappy old Taurus that was my money's quicksand. Sucks... and now i've gotten myself in a whole nother can of worms... but oh well. I at least know my car is going to safely get my from point A to point B!Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?You are at that fine point where new car payments and insurance may be worth the peace of mind. Ford, GM, and Hyundai have payment rescue plans in case you lose your job, so I'd shop there. If you don't like to shop for a car, and are a AAA member, they have a really good auto buying program you should check out.
Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?
I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Limited Edition. I recently (August) had my brake shoes, pads, and rotors changed. A month after it came back I noticed a lot of brake dust on my tires. I called someone and he said it was normal, that the pads were new and I thought little of it. Then about a week or so ago I started noticing that when I would apply pressure to my brakes at times they would be a little slow to stop a few times, but nothing alarming. Then today the brake petal started acting weird. I would apply pressure to brake and it would go all the way to the floor and barely stop my car. There was no friction. As I pushed them to the ground I almost heard a air like noise but am not sure as I am a novice when it comes to this sort of thing. Someone said it could be the master cylinder and someone else said to have my brakes bleed. Does this sound right? If so how much would this typically cost to fix. I am taking it in tomorrow but would like to be semi educated before hand.Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?n name,
First look at the master cylinder and see if the fluid is full. if it's not then you have a leak. I would say that it is most likely comming form a rear wheel if you can't see anythng on the street.
AS for the extra brake dust that is common for brake shops, they use softer pad than originally placedon your truck from Ford. They will work fine just have extra dust. in the same token they wear out a bit faster.
If the fluid is not low and you said the pedal went to the floor Iwould have it looked at. If you had the brakes done at a shop if it was like Midas or Minekie any of their shops will warranty the work of any of their shops no matter where it was done. If it was done bay a dealership take it to same type dealership and they will also warranty the work done of any of their other dealerships.
Good Luck and becareful!!Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?This problem recently happened to my 1994 Ranger. I found that when i looked under the truck it was a rusty brake line leaking on my axle. so i replaced that section of my brake line. myself (still cost $100). so i would look under there and see if there is fluid sprayed up on the underside of the truck. if not it may be a hole a problem with one of your master cylinders.Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?You should take it back to the place where you got the brakes serviced in the beginning about a month ago. Sounds like their responsible. Take it back and tell them what is going on, it's a safety issue and they were the last ones who serviced your brakes so they must of did something wrong. Be careful and don't forget about that emergency brake. Best of luck to you!Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?Sounds like the master cylinder to me. There is a chance it could be air in the lines, but not likely. If there's a leak, definitely don't drive it. Look around for wetting on or around the brake lines. If there is, you may have to get it towed. A new master cylinder costs like 150 bucks give or take plus labor.Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?If master cylinder is full of fluid you need a master cylinder about $300 to fix at a shop. If fluid is low you have a leak that has to be fixed.
First look at the master cylinder and see if the fluid is full. if it's not then you have a leak. I would say that it is most likely comming form a rear wheel if you can't see anythng on the street.
AS for the extra brake dust that is common for brake shops, they use softer pad than originally placedon your truck from Ford. They will work fine just have extra dust. in the same token they wear out a bit faster.
If the fluid is not low and you said the pedal went to the floor Iwould have it looked at. If you had the brakes done at a shop if it was like Midas or Minekie any of their shops will warranty the work of any of their shops no matter where it was done. If it was done bay a dealership take it to same type dealership and they will also warranty the work done of any of their other dealerships.
Good Luck and becareful!!Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?This problem recently happened to my 1994 Ranger. I found that when i looked under the truck it was a rusty brake line leaking on my axle. so i replaced that section of my brake line. myself (still cost $100). so i would look under there and see if there is fluid sprayed up on the underside of the truck. if not it may be a hole a problem with one of your master cylinders.Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?You should take it back to the place where you got the brakes serviced in the beginning about a month ago. Sounds like their responsible. Take it back and tell them what is going on, it's a safety issue and they were the last ones who serviced your brakes so they must of did something wrong. Be careful and don't forget about that emergency brake. Best of luck to you!Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?Sounds like the master cylinder to me. There is a chance it could be air in the lines, but not likely. If there's a leak, definitely don't drive it. Look around for wetting on or around the brake lines. If there is, you may have to get it towed. A new master cylinder costs like 150 bucks give or take plus labor.Brake issue 1993 Ford Explorer?If master cylinder is full of fluid you need a master cylinder about $300 to fix at a shop. If fluid is low you have a leak that has to be fixed.
How do I get my back brake pads to come apart?
On my bike I was changing by back tire when I accidentally stepped on my back lever. the pads are now stuck together and i cant get my back tire back on. I am unable to go to a shop for the next few weeks and I have tried to open them up by prying with a screwdriver.
Brakes are avid juicy threes with an 8 inch rotor if that helps.
ThanksHow do I get my back brake pads to come apart?just take a flat head and prey them apart. I have done it to. ya just make sure when you take you wheel off to stick something in the caliper like cardboard or something so if that happens again you don't have to sweat it.How do I get my back brake pads to come apart?Not familiar with Avid's juicy 3's brake system but you should be able to depress the piston to release the pressure. Here is the tech manual. Good luck! http://www.wrower.pl/instrukcje/Avid/2006-JuicyTechManual.pdfHow do I get my back brake pads to come apart?I've got giant MPH brakes and when i changed the pads the same thing happened, but i realized there was a a thing on the side of the hydraulic reservoir that changed how far the pads were together and you just had to change this. The pads will be closer together if you have just put new ones in because they will be thicker.
Hope this helps.
Brakes are avid juicy threes with an 8 inch rotor if that helps.
ThanksHow do I get my back brake pads to come apart?just take a flat head and prey them apart. I have done it to. ya just make sure when you take you wheel off to stick something in the caliper like cardboard or something so if that happens again you don't have to sweat it.How do I get my back brake pads to come apart?Not familiar with Avid's juicy 3's brake system but you should be able to depress the piston to release the pressure. Here is the tech manual. Good luck! http://www.wrower.pl/instrukcje/Avid/2006-JuicyTechManual.pdfHow do I get my back brake pads to come apart?I've got giant MPH brakes and when i changed the pads the same thing happened, but i realized there was a a thing on the side of the hydraulic reservoir that changed how far the pads were together and you just had to change this. The pads will be closer together if you have just put new ones in because they will be thicker.
Hope this helps.
How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
My corolla has 60,000 km's on it and the dealership is telling me the pads need to be replaced. I have not noticed anything wrong with them, no noise, no squeaks. Also if I get them changed do I need to get the rotors machined? And how much extra should that cost?How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?60,000 km on one set of pads is better than average actually.
When do you change tires? When the wear indicators show or when the belts start showing through the tire?
If you wait til they squeek they will score your rotors; then you'll HAVE TO get them machined.
You probably only need the front brakes done. BUT ...
... take their advice if they say all four, they aren't trying to rip you off. Do you want your car out of service twice for brake pads? Have they ripped you off before? Why so paranoid now then? If you haven't gotten good service take it to a different dealer. They'll give you the worn out pads to take home if you want proof of how much they are worn.
Get used to the concept of %26quot;operating cost%26quot;. Buying a car is just the beginning.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?wow im surprised they lasted that long. that means you are a good driver. yes you should get the rotors machined and that should generally be included in the price of the brake job. about $150-$175 should do it, depending on where you live.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?not sure how far 60,000km's is,but if you do have the brakes done before you hear the metal to metal rub your rotors should be fineHow long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?It really depends on your driving habits. If you drive highway mostly then you may not need brakes, if you do a lot of in town driving then you MIGHT. You should have a mechanic that you trust check the brakes. If you do need them then get the rotors machined, it wont cost that much more and it will prolong the life of the new brakes.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?I have 45,000 miles on one car, 65,000 miles on another and one truck has 80,000 miles on the brake pads. They all stop good and I check the pads from time to time to make sure they look all right. If the pads look good and you are not having problems, I wouldn't change them. You have about 40,000 miles (60,000 km) and that means you don't ride your brakes so you should be able to go around 100,000 miles (161,000 km) before anything need to be done.
And brakes are one thing I don't take any chances with on a car. If there is any danger I get them fixed.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?if you have gone 60,000 miles without new pads until now you are doing good. And yes you want to have the rotors turned. i dont know what dealers charge but anywhere else probably under 100.00 or you could do it yourself for under $50.00.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?I have a 2000 Tundra, I have put over 140,000 miles on it many of them pulling (and stopping) heavy loads. The brake pads are still good. So 60,000 km would be a short life in my experience. And yes you should hear the squeaking if they are nearing the end of their life.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?Brake lining life depends on your driving habits and also what material they are made of. If these are the original linings, you definitely got your money's worth out of them. I would go ahead and have the brakes replaced and the rotors/drums refaced even if you don't feel any brake pedal fluctuation. The cost for rotor/drum refacing varies,but it could be upwards of $20 USD. Rotors have a minimum thickness and drums have a maximum diameter before replacing. If that's so, you can expect to pay even more. Besides, you can't put a price on safety. Remember: All go and no whoa ruins your day.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?60000 Kilometers = 37284 Miles (for those who dont know)
I would suggest having an ASE certified mechaninc replace your pads, then, ask him for his opinion of weather or not the rotors need mechined. My personal thoughts will be that they dont need to be. But hey everyone thinks different, this is just my opinion.
Replacing your pads before you hear them squeak or grind is safer then waiting till they are telling you they need it.
And a side note to the guy who %26quot;claims%26quot; he has put 140,000 Miles on his truck pulling loads and not replaced his pads, your about as irresponsible as they come, you are endangering other lives by running that risk. if you want to pull loads with a truck (and judgin from your comment I guess you dont) you have the responsibility of ensuring your brakes are good, not just %26quot;hoping%26quot; they dont give out this time you try to stop.medium length hair camera broke
When do you change tires? When the wear indicators show or when the belts start showing through the tire?
If you wait til they squeek they will score your rotors; then you'll HAVE TO get them machined.
You probably only need the front brakes done. BUT ...
... take their advice if they say all four, they aren't trying to rip you off. Do you want your car out of service twice for brake pads? Have they ripped you off before? Why so paranoid now then? If you haven't gotten good service take it to a different dealer. They'll give you the worn out pads to take home if you want proof of how much they are worn.
Get used to the concept of %26quot;operating cost%26quot;. Buying a car is just the beginning.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?wow im surprised they lasted that long. that means you are a good driver. yes you should get the rotors machined and that should generally be included in the price of the brake job. about $150-$175 should do it, depending on where you live.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?not sure how far 60,000km's is,but if you do have the brakes done before you hear the metal to metal rub your rotors should be fineHow long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?It really depends on your driving habits. If you drive highway mostly then you may not need brakes, if you do a lot of in town driving then you MIGHT. You should have a mechanic that you trust check the brakes. If you do need them then get the rotors machined, it wont cost that much more and it will prolong the life of the new brakes.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?I have 45,000 miles on one car, 65,000 miles on another and one truck has 80,000 miles on the brake pads. They all stop good and I check the pads from time to time to make sure they look all right. If the pads look good and you are not having problems, I wouldn't change them. You have about 40,000 miles (60,000 km) and that means you don't ride your brakes so you should be able to go around 100,000 miles (161,000 km) before anything need to be done.
And brakes are one thing I don't take any chances with on a car. If there is any danger I get them fixed.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?if you have gone 60,000 miles without new pads until now you are doing good. And yes you want to have the rotors turned. i dont know what dealers charge but anywhere else probably under 100.00 or you could do it yourself for under $50.00.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?I have a 2000 Tundra, I have put over 140,000 miles on it many of them pulling (and stopping) heavy loads. The brake pads are still good. So 60,000 km would be a short life in my experience. And yes you should hear the squeaking if they are nearing the end of their life.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?Brake lining life depends on your driving habits and also what material they are made of. If these are the original linings, you definitely got your money's worth out of them. I would go ahead and have the brakes replaced and the rotors/drums refaced even if you don't feel any brake pedal fluctuation. The cost for rotor/drum refacing varies,but it could be upwards of $20 USD. Rotors have a minimum thickness and drums have a maximum diameter before replacing. If that's so, you can expect to pay even more. Besides, you can't put a price on safety. Remember: All go and no whoa ruins your day.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?60000 Kilometers = 37284 Miles (for those who dont know)
I would suggest having an ASE certified mechaninc replace your pads, then, ask him for his opinion of weather or not the rotors need mechined. My personal thoughts will be that they dont need to be. But hey everyone thinks different, this is just my opinion.
Replacing your pads before you hear them squeak or grind is safer then waiting till they are telling you they need it.
And a side note to the guy who %26quot;claims%26quot; he has put 140,000 Miles on his truck pulling loads and not replaced his pads, your about as irresponsible as they come, you are endangering other lives by running that risk. if you want to pull loads with a truck (and judgin from your comment I guess you dont) you have the responsibility of ensuring your brakes are good, not just %26quot;hoping%26quot; they dont give out this time you try to stop.
How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?
My front brake pads were replaced about 30,000 miles ago. I took my car in for an oil change and basic inspection at an auto shop, and they said that the front pads are 80% worn, and the rotors are grooved, and the front pads and rotors all need to be replaced. They are estimating $250 total for this repair. This seems too soon for them to be so worn since I do mostly highway driving and I'm light on the brakes. The brake pads are not making any noise yet. If the pads and rotors are indeed this damaged, shouldn't my brakes be making an awful noise?How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?30,000 miles is excellent for a front wheel drive car. My best advice is to have another shop take a look and give you an estimate. If you aren't feeling anything wrong with the brakes it doesn't mean the pads can't be worn. But you may not need to buy new rotors.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?minumum 1 yearHow long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?I have a Sunfire too and mine lasted a lot longer...I highly recommend getting a second opinion. I did and it turned out that what one mechanic told me didn't need to be done. Saved me a lot of money.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?Noise isn't usual until damage has been done.
It does seem a little short on mileage, but it depends on the quality of the last pads installed. If you had a %26quot;budget%26quot; or %26quot;Special%26quot; brake service, they may indeed be due.
Locate a quality ASE Certified shop and ask for an inspection and estimate. You may be charged, but they may waive the cost of the inspection if you contract with the shop for work.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?You state your brake pads were replaced 30k ago, my question is did they also replaced the brake rotors? If they did not than you may indeed need to replaced both the brake pads and rotors after 30k miles. It also depends on what type of brakes parts they installed and how many miles are on the rest of the brake parts. You will also use up your front pads if your rear brakes are not adjusted right.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?Depend only on YOUR driving habits. But 30,000 miles is pretty close. They will not make noise if sensors are not touching yet. $ 250.00 is damn cheap for rotors, pads and labor.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?First of all your brake pads on front will wear out about 3-4 times as fast.
Now 30K doesn't sound the worst, - it depends on how much you use the brakes, and how fast you try to stop! Mine last a whole lot longer, but I let friction and air perssure slow down the car a lot before I apply brakes, and I also use the gears on (my) std. trans car. My wifes is an automatic, and she gets even better miles on hers, because she doesn't push her car as hard as I do mine , and she usually drives like she has all day to go places! She drives with traffic ok,- but maintains about 8 car lengths between her and others, so she uses brakes very sparingly!
$250 sounds pretty steep, -- I think %26quot;Brake Check%26quot; advertises $59.95 per axle (extra parts on top of course). An %26quot;axle%26quot; is both wheels on one end!
Have any mechanical aptitude? Learn how to do them yourself! The pads cost from about $18 - $30 depending on what kind of %26quot;brake performance%26quot; you are looking for. Obviously the %26quot;high performance%26quot; ones are going to cost a lot more! In normal use they usually last a whole lot longer, - because you don't really need these %26quot;heavy duty%26quot; brakes for normal driving! As far as the %26quot;groves%26quot; go, - if they aren't causing any propblems now, - they won't cause any problems later! This means that they just aren't %26quot;like new%26quot;. If the brakes don't %26quot;chatter%26quot; or %26quot;pulsate%26quot; the brake pedal - I woudln't worry about it! The new pads will wear a little faster till they are %26quot;seated%26quot; in a %26quot;wear pattern%26quot;, - after which they will wear
at normal rate! --- Acutally if you think about it, the area of braking contact on pads is slightly increased, - (crumple a piece of paper and see how much less area it covers) it still has the same outside area as before! So if you could smooth the disk out, it would be bigger in diameter (or larger braking area)!
You can probably put new pads on in an hour or less! This of course depends on whether you have worn them down till the backing pads are grinding on disks! If all the parts are good otherwise, I can probably put them on in a half hour or less!
Go to an %26quot;AutoZone type%26quot; store and buy a %26quot;Haynes Auto Repair Manual%26quot;, and it has all the information on how to do the job. This will cost you less than $20. It is a complerte maintainance manual, and shows you how to do just about anything on car,-- if you want to do it yourself!How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?Your brake pads should have what is called a wear indicator, which is a clip that is attached to the brake pad, which upon wear, comes into contact with the rotor, making a loud, screeching noise. This noise is an indication that the pads need to be replaced. With this said, the wear of the brake pads can fluctuate, depending on several factors: 1) Your driving style. Alot of heavy braking can cause premature wear of the pads. 2) the type of material that your brake pads are made of. Organic pads tend to wear faster, where semi-metallic pads create fast stopping, but wear quickly, tend to damage the rotors over the course of time, and emit a black dust that you will quickly notice on your front wheels. Ceramic pads offer the best of both worlds, they are %26quot;quiet%26quot; and have little dust, and cause less wear to the rotors. I agree, with an earlier response, I would take the car to a reputable mechanic, and have them inspected. Many dealerships and service centers offer a free brake inspection, I would also ask to be present when the inspection is conducted. If they will not allow you to watch and ask questions, politely leave and don't look back. If they do welcome your presence and questions, look for excessive dust, and determine if the wear indicator clip, at the bottom, is even with the friction material on the brake pad. (Note: the caliper in which the pads are installed may be rusted and dirty. This is common, and in no way affects your quality of braking) Most mechanics are honest, but a few assume that you don't know the difference and are looking to sell you a set of pads, at a high labor rate. Being informed is the best savings and safety option that you can take with you when having work performed on your vehicle. I wish you the best.
It does seem a little short on mileage, but it depends on the quality of the last pads installed. If you had a %26quot;budget%26quot; or %26quot;Special%26quot; brake service, they may indeed be due.
Locate a quality ASE Certified shop and ask for an inspection and estimate. You may be charged, but they may waive the cost of the inspection if you contract with the shop for work.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?You state your brake pads were replaced 30k ago, my question is did they also replaced the brake rotors? If they did not than you may indeed need to replaced both the brake pads and rotors after 30k miles. It also depends on what type of brakes parts they installed and how many miles are on the rest of the brake parts. You will also use up your front pads if your rear brakes are not adjusted right.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?Depend only on YOUR driving habits. But 30,000 miles is pretty close. They will not make noise if sensors are not touching yet. $ 250.00 is damn cheap for rotors, pads and labor.How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?First of all your brake pads on front will wear out about 3-4 times as fast.
Now 30K doesn't sound the worst, - it depends on how much you use the brakes, and how fast you try to stop! Mine last a whole lot longer, but I let friction and air perssure slow down the car a lot before I apply brakes, and I also use the gears on (my) std. trans car. My wifes is an automatic, and she gets even better miles on hers, because she doesn't push her car as hard as I do mine , and she usually drives like she has all day to go places! She drives with traffic ok,- but maintains about 8 car lengths between her and others, so she uses brakes very sparingly!
$250 sounds pretty steep, -- I think %26quot;Brake Check%26quot; advertises $59.95 per axle (extra parts on top of course). An %26quot;axle%26quot; is both wheels on one end!
Have any mechanical aptitude? Learn how to do them yourself! The pads cost from about $18 - $30 depending on what kind of %26quot;brake performance%26quot; you are looking for. Obviously the %26quot;high performance%26quot; ones are going to cost a lot more! In normal use they usually last a whole lot longer, - because you don't really need these %26quot;heavy duty%26quot; brakes for normal driving! As far as the %26quot;groves%26quot; go, - if they aren't causing any propblems now, - they won't cause any problems later! This means that they just aren't %26quot;like new%26quot;. If the brakes don't %26quot;chatter%26quot; or %26quot;pulsate%26quot; the brake pedal - I woudln't worry about it! The new pads will wear a little faster till they are %26quot;seated%26quot; in a %26quot;wear pattern%26quot;, - after which they will wear
at normal rate! --- Acutally if you think about it, the area of braking contact on pads is slightly increased, - (crumple a piece of paper and see how much less area it covers) it still has the same outside area as before! So if you could smooth the disk out, it would be bigger in diameter (or larger braking area)!
You can probably put new pads on in an hour or less! This of course depends on whether you have worn them down till the backing pads are grinding on disks! If all the parts are good otherwise, I can probably put them on in a half hour or less!
Go to an %26quot;AutoZone type%26quot; store and buy a %26quot;Haynes Auto Repair Manual%26quot;, and it has all the information on how to do the job. This will cost you less than $20. It is a complerte maintainance manual, and shows you how to do just about anything on car,-- if you want to do it yourself!How long should brake pads last on a Pontiac Sunfire?Your brake pads should have what is called a wear indicator, which is a clip that is attached to the brake pad, which upon wear, comes into contact with the rotor, making a loud, screeching noise. This noise is an indication that the pads need to be replaced. With this said, the wear of the brake pads can fluctuate, depending on several factors: 1) Your driving style. Alot of heavy braking can cause premature wear of the pads. 2) the type of material that your brake pads are made of. Organic pads tend to wear faster, where semi-metallic pads create fast stopping, but wear quickly, tend to damage the rotors over the course of time, and emit a black dust that you will quickly notice on your front wheels. Ceramic pads offer the best of both worlds, they are %26quot;quiet%26quot; and have little dust, and cause less wear to the rotors. I agree, with an earlier response, I would take the car to a reputable mechanic, and have them inspected. Many dealerships and service centers offer a free brake inspection, I would also ask to be present when the inspection is conducted. If they will not allow you to watch and ask questions, politely leave and don't look back. If they do welcome your presence and questions, look for excessive dust, and determine if the wear indicator clip, at the bottom, is even with the friction material on the brake pad. (Note: the caliper in which the pads are installed may be rusted and dirty. This is common, and in no way affects your quality of braking) Most mechanics are honest, but a few assume that you don't know the difference and are looking to sell you a set of pads, at a high labor rate. Being informed is the best savings and safety option that you can take with you when having work performed on your vehicle. I wish you the best.
How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?
01 Dodge Neon how much do you think they would charge to replace both rotors both drums and both pads and shoes.
Just labor and stuff. Dont includethe price of the parts !How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Both sides meaning both backs or both fronts?Most places charge around $100 an hour for labor (dealerships) should be about 3 hours labor for rears.How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Probably somewhere around $250 just for labor as most shops charge around $50 an hour for labor and it's going to be in the shop for at least that.How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?depending on if u wanted the drums and rotors turned or replaced.....the shop i worked at would have charged like this: turned with replacing pads in the front would have been 2.2 hours, turning drums and replacing shoes would have been 2.5---so 4.7 hours x 85 dollars an hour = 399.50 in labor----having them replaced would have been 1.5 x 85 and then 2.0 x 85 so that would be 297.50---thats all labor prices....so kind of expect something close to thatHow much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?a cheap mechanic would charge you 60 to 80 bucks - if your going to a shop- your talking over 150 on a good day on a bad day (for the mechanic) 300 bucksHow much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Labour
Front pads - 1.0
Front slider service - 0.6
R%26amp;R Front rotors - 0.2
R%26amp;R Rear brake drums - 0.2 (Machine drums 0.6)
Rear brake clean and adjust - 0.6
Just labor and stuff. Dont includethe price of the parts !How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Both sides meaning both backs or both fronts?Most places charge around $100 an hour for labor (dealerships) should be about 3 hours labor for rears.How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Probably somewhere around $250 just for labor as most shops charge around $50 an hour for labor and it's going to be in the shop for at least that.How much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?depending on if u wanted the drums and rotors turned or replaced.....the shop i worked at would have charged like this: turned with replacing pads in the front would have been 2.2 hours, turning drums and replacing shoes would have been 2.5---so 4.7 hours x 85 dollars an hour = 399.50 in labor----having them replaced would have been 1.5 x 85 and then 2.0 x 85 so that would be 297.50---thats all labor prices....so kind of expect something close to thatHow much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?a cheap mechanic would charge you 60 to 80 bucks - if your going to a shop- your talking over 150 on a good day on a bad day (for the mechanic) 300 bucksHow much would a mechanic shop charge for total brake change?Labour
Front pads - 1.0
Front slider service - 0.6
R%26amp;R Front rotors - 0.2
R%26amp;R Rear brake drums - 0.2 (Machine drums 0.6)
Rear brake clean and adjust - 0.6
How to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?
How bad is a brake job (pads and rotors) on a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali... I got a quote for $1100 but I can buy the pads and rotors for $288 and do them myself, its been a few years since ive done brakes on my own and ive never done a dual piston setup, anything special? anyone memorize enough to give me a step by step? thanks!How to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?Nah nothing special, take the wheel off, take the caliper off, remove the old brake pads, remove the caliper braket.. now the hard part is to take the rotor off cuz it might be rusty and wont come off that easy... if there 2 screws then use an impact screw driver to get them off, if there are 2 holes, then you just need 2 get 2 bolts and screw them in to push the rotor out... then use a C-Clamp to push the pistons back in so that you can put it over the new pads, have funHow to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?way to high
type into search box
steps
how to check brake pads
how to check brake pads video
how to remove brake pads
how to remove brake pads video
how to replace brake pads
how to replace brake pads Yukon
how to bleed brakes
how to bleed brakes video
how to remove brake rotors
how to remove brake rotor video
how to remove brake rotor Yukon Denali
really not real hard to learn brakes
my wife does her own brake jobs
my 7 yrs old boy helps me do mine
most cars brake systems are about same in doing the job once you know basic steps
just nuts and bolts really
some brake caliber pistons are screw in type
many are not
and a tip once job is dont dont forget to pump brake peddle a few times to check
you can find most repairs online even video of repairs
how to name of what your looking for
how to check
how to remove\replace
how to install
how to repair
name of what your wanting
add video
works with everything not just cars
dual no differents if you have done any brake jobs at all you got the stepsHow to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?Buy a Haynes manual
But there is nothing different other than the double piston
type into search box
steps
how to check brake pads
how to check brake pads video
how to remove brake pads
how to remove brake pads video
how to replace brake pads
how to replace brake pads Yukon
how to bleed brakes
how to bleed brakes video
how to remove brake rotors
how to remove brake rotor video
how to remove brake rotor Yukon Denali
really not real hard to learn brakes
my wife does her own brake jobs
my 7 yrs old boy helps me do mine
most cars brake systems are about same in doing the job once you know basic steps
just nuts and bolts really
some brake caliber pistons are screw in type
many are not
and a tip once job is dont dont forget to pump brake peddle a few times to check
you can find most repairs online even video of repairs
how to name of what your looking for
how to check
how to remove\replace
how to install
how to repair
name of what your wanting
add video
works with everything not just cars
dual no differents if you have done any brake jobs at all you got the stepsHow to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?Buy a Haynes manual
But there is nothing different other than the double piston
4 Wheel disc brake service?
First of all, my car is 1990 Mazda Miata MX-5
And I also live in so california in la mirada around border line of orange county.
How much is it to service my car's brakes(it has 4 wheel disc brakes)?
What shop is most dependable and the cheapest I can go (I am a college student with not much money)?
This time I have to change brake pads on all 4 wheels and replace 2 rear rotors and resurface on front rotors. And I plan to diagnose my braking system cause i think my brakes arn't wearing out evenly when i look into my tire rims. I think i'll also need a brake oil flush too but im not too sure.
I am actually planning to go to sears auto in brea mall to service my brakes. Is it a good idea?
My family has been getting new tires to replace the worn ones for few years and i think they do a good job.
But I want to also know if there are any other cheaper shops that does a good job on brakes.
And once again, How much would my brake service cost on average with 2 rotors replaced with all 4 brake pads?
Thanks in advanced! :)4 Wheel disc brake service?going to sear is a good idea. i have use then before and they do a good job.
And I also live in so california in la mirada around border line of orange county.
How much is it to service my car's brakes(it has 4 wheel disc brakes)?
What shop is most dependable and the cheapest I can go (I am a college student with not much money)?
This time I have to change brake pads on all 4 wheels and replace 2 rear rotors and resurface on front rotors. And I plan to diagnose my braking system cause i think my brakes arn't wearing out evenly when i look into my tire rims. I think i'll also need a brake oil flush too but im not too sure.
I am actually planning to go to sears auto in brea mall to service my brakes. Is it a good idea?
My family has been getting new tires to replace the worn ones for few years and i think they do a good job.
But I want to also know if there are any other cheaper shops that does a good job on brakes.
And once again, How much would my brake service cost on average with 2 rotors replaced with all 4 brake pads?
Thanks in advanced! :)4 Wheel disc brake service?going to sear is a good idea. i have use then before and they do a good job.
How to replace and what tools do i need to replace the rear brake pads on a mazda protege 1994?
I have a maza protege 1994 and i just cant find the tools to change it and if im changing them the right way... I need to change them now since they are messing up my rotors thank u very muchHow to replace and what tools do i need to replace the rear brake pads on a mazda protege 1994?If you've never done drum brakes, recruit a knowledgable friend to help you through the first time. The tension springs are pretty tight and you'll have a fight muscling them back on. And that's after you search for them in the grass after they shoot off when you take them loose.
Wear safety glasses and at least some cheap knit gloves.How to replace and what tools do i need to replace the rear brake pads on a mazda protege 1994?Dee,
I am pretty sure that those are drum brakes, which means that unless you want to struggle and curse alot you will need to get a drum brake tool, it will allow you to remove the pad springs much more easily than trying to use a screwdriver and vice grips. You need to remove the drum itself after pulling off the wheel, then pay very close attention to how everything is put together before starting. The pads are held on with hooks over posts and there is a lot of spring tension. Honestly unless you are willing to bust your knuckles and face the possibility of getting them off and not being able to get them back on, you should take the car to a brake shop or find a friend that has the tools and experience to do it for you, they are a pain in the ***.initiate legal case for natural hair
Wear safety glasses and at least some cheap knit gloves.How to replace and what tools do i need to replace the rear brake pads on a mazda protege 1994?Dee,
I am pretty sure that those are drum brakes, which means that unless you want to struggle and curse alot you will need to get a drum brake tool, it will allow you to remove the pad springs much more easily than trying to use a screwdriver and vice grips. You need to remove the drum itself after pulling off the wheel, then pay very close attention to how everything is put together before starting. The pads are held on with hooks over posts and there is a lot of spring tension. Honestly unless you are willing to bust your knuckles and face the possibility of getting them off and not being able to get them back on, you should take the car to a brake shop or find a friend that has the tools and experience to do it for you, they are a pain in the ***.
What causes vibration in my car?
I've changed brake pads and rotors, I've checked air pressure, but i still get a vibration when i go above 55 mph. It feels like it's in the wheels to me. The car doesn't pull to one side when i let go of the wheel either, which someone told me that's how to check if it needs alignment. thanksWhat causes vibration in my car?you probably need to get your tires balanced, that would cause a vibrationWhat causes vibration in my car?Get the axels checked out.What causes vibration in my car?me making hot crazy love in it. JK. umm, y r u in the singles forum??What causes vibration in my car?what does this have to do with singles and dating? xDWhat causes vibration in my car?Are you like dating your car?
Lmao, sorry.
But why is this in singles %26amp; datingWhat causes vibration in my car?I find it funny that the question is in singles and dating :-)What causes vibration in my car?GO REAL SLOW ,IF YOUR CAR GOES UP AND DOWN ,IT,S A BAD TIRE.What causes vibration in my car?A tire could be out of balance.
Which can cause the car to shake.What causes vibration in my car?Wrong section.What causes vibration in my car?Check your tires again, the inner edges might be getting worn down. Rotating them might be a good idea, if they are not so badly worn that the tread might peel off while your driving.What causes vibration in my car?Have your struts cheaked, yes they are a real part of the car. They will cause it to viberat at a higher rate of speed.What causes vibration in my car?your girls toy under the seat
Lmao, sorry.
But why is this in singles %26amp; datingWhat causes vibration in my car?I find it funny that the question is in singles and dating :-)What causes vibration in my car?GO REAL SLOW ,IF YOUR CAR GOES UP AND DOWN ,IT,S A BAD TIRE.What causes vibration in my car?A tire could be out of balance.
Which can cause the car to shake.What causes vibration in my car?Wrong section.What causes vibration in my car?Check your tires again, the inner edges might be getting worn down. Rotating them might be a good idea, if they are not so badly worn that the tread might peel off while your driving.What causes vibration in my car?Have your struts cheaked, yes they are a real part of the car. They will cause it to viberat at a higher rate of speed.What causes vibration in my car?your girls toy under the seat
How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
I have a Honda Civic 04 DX with Discs in the front and drums in the back. I have changed the brake pads at 60K but I want more info on RotorsHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum machining limits on most Japanese vehicles (at least here in Japan) is inside the rotor itself. It must be removed in order to see it. It generally will say %26quot;Min 19mm%26quot;, or something similiar.
For some reason, people think you must machine or %26quot;turn%26quot; the rotors every brake change, which is untrue. Most rotors can only handle 2-3 turnings (depending on how much material is removed), while some specify no machining at all...simply replace. They should not need it unless they have been grooved, warped, or have some condition that makes if necessary.
Vibrations while braking (usually in the brake pedal itself) can indicate rotors that are out of round, a faulty caliper, or incorrectly adjusted rear drum brake(s). (YES..loose shoes that refuse to self-adjust can give similiar symptoms)
Measurements must be made with a micrometer in several places going towards the center of the rotor if possible. (Go with the smallest reading if it varies). Never with a set of calipers, which can only measure the widest point at the outer edge. (Not accurate, as the edges can flare slightly, and rust can throw off the reading). A wrench is ok in a pinch, like looking thru a junkyard for a decent replacement (if you go that route), but keep in mind, a 19 mm wrench measures slightly over 19 mm.. (.4mm or .015 in. wider) otherwise, to get it over a 19 mm nut, it would be a press fit.
Factory replacements can run a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure you can find a quality replacement for much cheaper. I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally Hondas only require tire removal, then brake caliper, and finally the two machine screws which hold the rotor snugly to the spindle to replace the rotor. (Most common with smaller bodied Hondas)
Some require a puller to remove the rotor from the hub bearing (much more expensive)..but, more common with larger models (Legends and Inspires etc..)
Hope this helps...How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You should always change them if there are any deep grooves in them. Otherwise, use a micrometer to determine their thickness and compare it to factory specs.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?take one into the nearest autoparts store and have them measure is the best way. Also there is a chamfer on the egde of a rotor look for it, if you do not see the chamfer you are getting really close and definately should have them measured.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?well when you changed your pads you were supposed to get them machined. they will tell you what kind of condition they are in. if you did get them resurfaced and they shake and feel different you probley will need some new ones. they are not very expensive and easy to changeHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You can sometimes tell when you're braking, you'll feel and hear a light thudding sound every 1-2 seconds, which indicates uneven groove and wear. They can also be too thin, but you'll need a micrometer to check for this (standard width is 19mm, I believe).
Typically, a shop will re-groove them to smooth them out, but this can only be done 1-2 times, then you have to change the rotors.
A garage will give you an inspection for a small fee ($20-50) or an auto parts store will eyeball and measure them for you if you remove the tire. Cost for new pair is $150-250, depending on where you live. To replace will cost you about the same. Good luck!How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum service limit for those rotors is 19mm. If there is no ridge on the outside of the rotor (you should have had them machined when you replaced your pads, so there should be no ridge). Try to fit a 19mm or 3/4 inch (the standard equivalent) open end wrench over the edge of the rotor. If it fits, your rotors are too thin and need to be replaced. You do not need to replace them to get rid of a brake pulse if there is still enough material to have them machined.
For some reason, people think you must machine or %26quot;turn%26quot; the rotors every brake change, which is untrue. Most rotors can only handle 2-3 turnings (depending on how much material is removed), while some specify no machining at all...simply replace. They should not need it unless they have been grooved, warped, or have some condition that makes if necessary.
Vibrations while braking (usually in the brake pedal itself) can indicate rotors that are out of round, a faulty caliper, or incorrectly adjusted rear drum brake(s). (YES..loose shoes that refuse to self-adjust can give similiar symptoms)
Measurements must be made with a micrometer in several places going towards the center of the rotor if possible. (Go with the smallest reading if it varies). Never with a set of calipers, which can only measure the widest point at the outer edge. (Not accurate, as the edges can flare slightly, and rust can throw off the reading). A wrench is ok in a pinch, like looking thru a junkyard for a decent replacement (if you go that route), but keep in mind, a 19 mm wrench measures slightly over 19 mm.. (.4mm or .015 in. wider) otherwise, to get it over a 19 mm nut, it would be a press fit.
Factory replacements can run a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure you can find a quality replacement for much cheaper. I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally Hondas only require tire removal, then brake caliper, and finally the two machine screws which hold the rotor snugly to the spindle to replace the rotor. (Most common with smaller bodied Hondas)
Some require a puller to remove the rotor from the hub bearing (much more expensive)..but, more common with larger models (Legends and Inspires etc..)
Hope this helps...How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You should always change them if there are any deep grooves in them. Otherwise, use a micrometer to determine their thickness and compare it to factory specs.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?take one into the nearest autoparts store and have them measure is the best way. Also there is a chamfer on the egde of a rotor look for it, if you do not see the chamfer you are getting really close and definately should have them measured.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?well when you changed your pads you were supposed to get them machined. they will tell you what kind of condition they are in. if you did get them resurfaced and they shake and feel different you probley will need some new ones. they are not very expensive and easy to changeHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You can sometimes tell when you're braking, you'll feel and hear a light thudding sound every 1-2 seconds, which indicates uneven groove and wear. They can also be too thin, but you'll need a micrometer to check for this (standard width is 19mm, I believe).
Typically, a shop will re-groove them to smooth them out, but this can only be done 1-2 times, then you have to change the rotors.
A garage will give you an inspection for a small fee ($20-50) or an auto parts store will eyeball and measure them for you if you remove the tire. Cost for new pair is $150-250, depending on where you live. To replace will cost you about the same. Good luck!How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum service limit for those rotors is 19mm. If there is no ridge on the outside of the rotor (you should have had them machined when you replaced your pads, so there should be no ridge). Try to fit a 19mm or 3/4 inch (the standard equivalent) open end wrench over the edge of the rotor. If it fits, your rotors are too thin and need to be replaced. You do not need to replace them to get rid of a brake pulse if there is still enough material to have them machined.
2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
I recently had the front rotors and pads on a 2000 Grand am SE. when I went to pump the brakes with the car off, the pedal became firm, then when I turned the car on, the pedal became spongy and unresponsive. Took it back to the mechanic a few days later, they said they would bleed the brakes, yet the pedal is still spongy, Master cylinder is fine, worked perfectly before the pads/rotors change. Could this be perhaps that they did not do a full system brake bleed?? PLEASE help, winter is coming and i want to have good brakes for the snow!! I heard maybe the brake pads just need to be worn in, if this is true, how long will it take for my brakes to go back to normal? Also wondering how much it could cost if i take it to someone to bleed the entire system and do nothing else? thanks2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Wow, I'm seeing some really incorrect information in the answers to this question.
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.
How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?
How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang. These bolts don't seem to budge. I am trying to change the back brake pads and rotors. I have done the front brakes before and had no problems. Is there a trick I do not know about for the back brakes. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. The car is 2002 ford mustang V6 automatic coupeHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?the caliper bolts might have seized... should be some 10 or 13 mm head bolts... but try some penetrent like PB MAX to try and loosen it up first
Also you will need a tool to retract the caliper as the parking brake is part of the caliperHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?Righty tighty, lefty loosey.How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?pushing the piston back in, takes a special tool, then you need to turn the piston clockwise and push at the same time,and as you turn they slowly go in
Also you will need a tool to retract the caliper as the parking brake is part of the caliperHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?Righty tighty, lefty loosey.How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?pushing the piston back in, takes a special tool, then you need to turn the piston clockwise and push at the same time,and as you turn they slowly go in
How to change rear brakes\rotors on 2002 chevy trailblazer?
Well I changed the front with no problems and it has helped allot. But I still hear allot of squealing from the rear and even sounds like a pad or something is dragging. I took a quick look without taking the wheel off and it looks really similar to the front. Being a 4wd would this be the case? Anything special? I will see if the auto place has a manual on this vehicle, but I do not think so as I looked online and it stops at 2000.
Thanks againHow to change rear brakes\rotors on 2002 chevy trailblazer?The trailblazer is straight forward. It's the identical method like the front, with the exception that it used the inside hub of the rotor as the drum for the parking brake. Take off the 2 caliper bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Grab the rotor and slide it off. There is no bridge to remove. The caliper piston is reset by compressing it, like the fronts. If you are going to replace the pads, it would be a good idea to replace the park brake shoes and hold down hardware as well.how to dual boot horses
Thanks againHow to change rear brakes\rotors on 2002 chevy trailblazer?The trailblazer is straight forward. It's the identical method like the front, with the exception that it used the inside hub of the rotor as the drum for the parking brake. Take off the 2 caliper bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Grab the rotor and slide it off. There is no bridge to remove. The caliper piston is reset by compressing it, like the fronts. If you are going to replace the pads, it would be a good idea to replace the park brake shoes and hold down hardware as well.
2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT needs brakes and rotors?
Brake rotors for a 2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT?
I had new ones put on about 2 months ago because they were warped. I did not change the brake pads at that time because they looked good. Well, after these two months I have the same vibration when braking. How hard is it to replace the rotors myself when I replace the pads? I have done pads before and they are not that hard, but never attempted the rotors before? Too difficult compared to replacing the pads?
What tools/supplies do I need? I have sockets, wrenches, C-clamp for the caliper, etc? Anything special to do a brake job, particularly the rotors??
Thanks!!2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT needs brakes and rotors?Since You have a 4 wheel drive the front differential and braking systems are mated. You must remove the outer parts of the front drive train on each side first. Then the rotors will come off after the calipers.
Make sure the bearings have proper pre-load on installation. If you love your truck, bring it to us,( DEALER ). we could use the work. Plus you will be able to bring it somewhere if you have the same problems in the future. Good luck. There will always be a Chrysler/Dodge place. Ther may not be as many.2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT needs brakes and rotors?That's an issue that is better taken to the dealer than attempting to do it yourself. There are MANY MANY inferior brake parts sold in the auto parts stores. Cheep rotors from China will cause you more issues than paying the dealer for the correct parts.
I had new ones put on about 2 months ago because they were warped. I did not change the brake pads at that time because they looked good. Well, after these two months I have the same vibration when braking. How hard is it to replace the rotors myself when I replace the pads? I have done pads before and they are not that hard, but never attempted the rotors before? Too difficult compared to replacing the pads?
What tools/supplies do I need? I have sockets, wrenches, C-clamp for the caliper, etc? Anything special to do a brake job, particularly the rotors??
Thanks!!2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT needs brakes and rotors?Since You have a 4 wheel drive the front differential and braking systems are mated. You must remove the outer parts of the front drive train on each side first. Then the rotors will come off after the calipers.
Make sure the bearings have proper pre-load on installation. If you love your truck, bring it to us,( DEALER ). we could use the work. Plus you will be able to bring it somewhere if you have the same problems in the future. Good luck. There will always be a Chrysler/Dodge place. Ther may not be as many.2006 Dodge Ram 4x4 Quad Cab SLT needs brakes and rotors?That's an issue that is better taken to the dealer than attempting to do it yourself. There are MANY MANY inferior brake parts sold in the auto parts stores. Cheep rotors from China will cause you more issues than paying the dealer for the correct parts.
Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?
About a year ago getting my tires changed the mechanic mentioned I need new pads. Sure enough they started to grind soon after. I changed all four front pads. Now less then a year later the grinding is back (was always just on the driver's side). I drive easy, no hard braking or drifting around corners. Is it ok to just change the one rotor? How about the pads? The sales guy also was trying to sell a bunch of extras like cleaner to get the oil off the rotor, replacement grease for the caliper bolts and something else because of the time of year (salt). The rotor box says %26quot;ready to install%26quot;, so do I also really need all that other stuff?
In case it matters: 2002 Saturn SL2 front wheel drive %26lt;100K milesIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?Its fine to do if your broke and only one is giving u the problem but chances are the other isn't far behind. I think your problem is either worn calliper or wheel baring because the problem is only on the 1 side. As for what the sales guy was trying to sell you pretty well bull other than its a good idea to keep the rotor as clean as possible and to keep your calliper bolts or any bolt u might have to take off again with anti seize.
Hope u find this helpfulIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?That %26quot;sales guy%26quot; does NOT sound good to me! Run (don't walk) to the door and say goodbye forever. Make sure to try another independent repair shop you might find by searching the below link. That new garage will remove both your rotors (easy to do) and simply turn them done on a lathe and charge you about $30 plus the cost of the new pads for a total cost of $125. Do the complete front brake job the right way, and you'll pay less and be safer driving in the long run.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?Even though it says ready to install, they do ship them with a light oil, and I always spray new rotors down with brake cleaner. As far as replacing one rotor, I would rather not. In hard braking it could cause the car to swerve slightly.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?1 get 2nd opinion
2 id rather you get 2 rotors if you can afford it but if poor one is ok ..
3 i can't believe the ****** is trying to nickle and dime you...charge for a smear of grease? and a spray of cleaner PLEASE punch him for me!Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?if it did it the 2nd time then it,s probably the caliper sticking. you can change just 1 side unless the other rotor is thin then you need to change both rotors to get good braking action. also when you buy rotors the factory puts grease or oil on them to keep them from rusting so before installing them wash them down with brake cleaner.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?clean all oil off the rotors and grease the bolts to make sure the calipers slide back in forth freely if they dont you will eat brake pad up.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?i would rather change %26quot;both%26quot; rotors at the same time. and if you plan to replace the brake pads, change both too.
the grinding sound that you feel is probably the cause of a warped rotor... this happens when the rotor gets hot when driving then a splash of water hits the rotor or going straight to the car wash after a long drive.
you don't have to buy those brake cleaners or grease.
the rotors are not that expensive anyway and even the brake pads. the expensive one is the %26quot;brake caliper%26quot;... but i don't think that you have a problem with this part.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?If you're wearing out one side prematurely, there's a reason. You may have a stuck caliper. The caliper must be free to slide side-to-side on the guide pins as the pads wear. If it's sticking, then you'll likely wear out one pad on that side before the others.If the rotor on the other side still has plenty of metal thickness left, then you could just replace one side. BUT you should have the old rotor ground or machined to remove any 'glaze'- that's when the surface gets polished from wear and heat. If you don't remove the glaze the new rotor will grab better than the old one and cause it to pull to one side. You MUST replace ALL the pads at the same time.
You need to clean and lubricate the guide pins (high-quality bearing grease works fine) and the holes where they slide. There's a small rubber seal that keeps out dirt. If the rubber is broken, dirt and water can get in and cause the caliper to stick. Also, you need to use shims behind the pads and pad silencer goop on the shims. Otherwise you'll end up with brakes that squeal.
In case it matters: 2002 Saturn SL2 front wheel drive %26lt;100K milesIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?Its fine to do if your broke and only one is giving u the problem but chances are the other isn't far behind. I think your problem is either worn calliper or wheel baring because the problem is only on the 1 side. As for what the sales guy was trying to sell you pretty well bull other than its a good idea to keep the rotor as clean as possible and to keep your calliper bolts or any bolt u might have to take off again with anti seize.
Hope u find this helpfulIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?That %26quot;sales guy%26quot; does NOT sound good to me! Run (don't walk) to the door and say goodbye forever. Make sure to try another independent repair shop you might find by searching the below link. That new garage will remove both your rotors (easy to do) and simply turn them done on a lathe and charge you about $30 plus the cost of the new pads for a total cost of $125. Do the complete front brake job the right way, and you'll pay less and be safer driving in the long run.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?Even though it says ready to install, they do ship them with a light oil, and I always spray new rotors down with brake cleaner. As far as replacing one rotor, I would rather not. In hard braking it could cause the car to swerve slightly.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?1 get 2nd opinion
2 id rather you get 2 rotors if you can afford it but if poor one is ok ..
3 i can't believe the ****** is trying to nickle and dime you...charge for a smear of grease? and a spray of cleaner PLEASE punch him for me!Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?if it did it the 2nd time then it,s probably the caliper sticking. you can change just 1 side unless the other rotor is thin then you need to change both rotors to get good braking action. also when you buy rotors the factory puts grease or oil on them to keep them from rusting so before installing them wash them down with brake cleaner.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?clean all oil off the rotors and grease the bolts to make sure the calipers slide back in forth freely if they dont you will eat brake pad up.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?i would rather change %26quot;both%26quot; rotors at the same time. and if you plan to replace the brake pads, change both too.
the grinding sound that you feel is probably the cause of a warped rotor... this happens when the rotor gets hot when driving then a splash of water hits the rotor or going straight to the car wash after a long drive.
you don't have to buy those brake cleaners or grease.
the rotors are not that expensive anyway and even the brake pads. the expensive one is the %26quot;brake caliper%26quot;... but i don't think that you have a problem with this part.Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?If you're wearing out one side prematurely, there's a reason. You may have a stuck caliper. The caliper must be free to slide side-to-side on the guide pins as the pads wear. If it's sticking, then you'll likely wear out one pad on that side before the others.If the rotor on the other side still has plenty of metal thickness left, then you could just replace one side. BUT you should have the old rotor ground or machined to remove any 'glaze'- that's when the surface gets polished from wear and heat. If you don't remove the glaze the new rotor will grab better than the old one and cause it to pull to one side. You MUST replace ALL the pads at the same time.
You need to clean and lubricate the guide pins (high-quality bearing grease works fine) and the holes where they slide. There's a small rubber seal that keeps out dirt. If the rubber is broken, dirt and water can get in and cause the caliper to stick. Also, you need to use shims behind the pads and pad silencer goop on the shims. Otherwise you'll end up with brakes that squeal.
95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
I recently changed out my front brake pads and rotors. Now I need to bleed the brakes, do I blled all four, and the master? Someone told me just the front two!? Doesn't sound right to me, And how do u bleed the master, On my 95 Dodge Ram.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?The easiest way is to buy some speedy bleed bleeder screws and install in your calipers. this will allow you to do it with one person. Then you would want to remove fluid from master cyl until about 1/4 full, fill with new fluid and bleed wheel farthest from MC first working your way to the closest. usually RR, LR, RF, LF. It's a little more technical with two people, if you don't want to use speedy bleeders. Timing and finesse are usually required, and usually goes like this: Pump pedal to build pressure, hold medium pressure, open bleeder screw, as the person depressing the pedal gets close to the floor they shout and you close the bleeder screw. It's best not to depress the pedal all the way. 3/4 travel is best. keep doing it till you see clean new fluid or if the fluid already looks clean pump a pint through for each rear and a half pint for each front. be sure to keep the reservoir full or you can pump air in. then it turns into a headache. this will bleed the master cyl, lines and calipers, but not the abs system if equipped. The master cylinder only needs to be bench bleed when it has been removed from the vehicle or it is new. And as dodge man said the gravity bleed is good too, almost fool proof, but takes along time. You just open the bleeder screw and let it slowly drip, then close the bleeder. with gravity feed i have done two wheels at once. rears at the same time, and fronts at the same time. be sure to keep an eye on that fluid level. No matter what any one says, you should replace your fluid every time you do your brakes. If you do that, pads and fluid are the only things you will have to replace.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?when i do these i gravity bleed them,its slower but better method of doing this,i just open a bleeder up and start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder,it is best to bleed all 4 wheels on them,this will also bleed out the master cylinder also on it,or you can have some one help you and pump bleed them,either way works on them,good luck with it.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?if ya did not open the system ya shouldn't have to,,but if yer going to do it start at the rear right bleeder,next the left rear,then the right front ,then the left front95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?As long as you didn't touch the rears, they should be fine. I have gotten away with only bleeding one axle. However, it doesn't hurt to bleed all four to make sure there is no air in the line. Whenever I bleed brakes, I do a gravity bleed first, then manually bleed them. To do this: take the cover off your master cylinder, and open all your bleeder screws. Fluid will travel down the lines and force all the air out at the bleeders. Do not let the master cylinder go empty during this process. When no more ait comes out, close the bleeders. Have someone get in the driver's seat and push on the pedal while you open the bleeder screw at one wheel. Have them push the pedal, you open the bleeder, let fluid/air come out, close the bleeder, and have the assistant let off the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out of the bleeder. Repeat this process for each wheel, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder:Right Rear, Left Rear, RIght Front, Left Front. If you do it right, you'll get all the air out of the system and you brakes will work fine. Hope this helps.
Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
I have a 2000 firebird (v6) warped rear disc brakes. Also, how important is it to bleed the brakes. On my 90's camaro I never bled them and never had a problem. Please help me out.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???no the rotors should come right off. if you don't open up the hydraulic part of the brake system you shouldn't have to bleed them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???Damn!! I should know this answer, I learned it in class today. My guess is since your replacing the pads and rotors you might as well replace the bearings, I think you have to replace the bearings every 30,000 miles.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???normally, I clean them and inspect them .any, I say any ,mark I replace them ,otherwise they are good. re grease them(repack) and install them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???no, no bearing removal is required, but check for lateral movement, and as far a brakes go no bleeding is not required unless you breach the system,Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???once you get the brake calipers off the rotors will come right off, you won't have to remove any bearings. The brake fluid should by all rights be flushed out every couple of years as moisture gets into the brake system and can cause havock with the ABS system.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???basically speaking.. u should not have to replace the bearing on a rear disc brake assembly, it depends on if u have a top hat design or integral design.. if u have top hat then u just pull off the rotor and replace the rotor and put on the caliper and wheel and such.. also.. bleeding your brakes is very important because your brakes absorb water because they are hygroscopic.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???no...you will not need to change wheel bearings....although if you are going to have the rotors off anyway, you may want to. your brakes should not have to be bled after replacing rotors and pads.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???You will have to remove the bearing to get the rotor off.Pack the bearing with grease before you put them back.You shouldnt have to bleed the brakes.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???on gm the bearing is seperate from the disc.just change the pads and rotors,like you would do on the front.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???No. you don't need to replace them. The bearing almost never goes bad and usually last the lifetime of your car. Replace it if you hear noise from it, like it is not lubricated. Bled the brake only if you remove the tube that goes to the wheel and you lost some oil (on the floor). Usually, to replace a brake, do not unscrew the oil pipe. Before you remove the rotor, insert a crew driver between the pads and push the piston inside the caliper. The pads came loose and with enough space to insert a new ones.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???A fire bird is rear wheel drive, so you would have to take apart the rearend and remove the axels to replace the bearings. So, you just need to leave that alone. The brakes are pretty straight forward. Pull off the rotors and slide new ones on. rear calipers usually need to be turned in, not pushed in like front calipers. look at your piston face ( the part that pushes on the pad) You should see 2 to 4 indents on the outer edge. these are engaged by a special tool used to turn them in. I've used channel locks as a last resort. Be careful not to rip the boots. You can probably rent a rear piston pusher at autozone. If you dont open the brake line you will not need to bleed them, but it is a good idea to bleed out the old fluid once in awhile to keep it fresh because it does absorb moisture from the air.
Brake Rotors?
How often do brake rotors usually need to be changed? I got a 1996 bmw sedan and i changed the brake rotors maybe 8,000-10,000 miles ago and know the brakes are starting to make some noices again so I was hoping its just the pads not the rotors also.Brake Rotors?The rotors won't typically make the noise by themselves.
The pads will wear a lot faster than most rotors. When you have a brake job done, they typically will replace the pads and measure the rotors to see if they are still within specifications. If they are, and can be machined, they will machine the rotors. Which basically makes the rotors smooth again to give the brakes a good surface to press against.
If you let the brake pads either %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors by going metal to metal or even some squeal plates make a gouge in the rotors they won't be able to machine them and you'll need to get them replaced.
If you are just starting to hear noise, go get the brakes inspected before they %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors too deeply.Brake Rotors?Extremely helpful but wrong. Brake rotors can absolutely cause noise and on German cars the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads. That is how they are engineered. I've replaced thousands of german brakes, I know.
Did you change the pads yourself?
Did you use brake grease on the caliper pins when you reinstalled them? This is an overlooked item. Not greasing those pins will cause the caliper to not float freely, the brakes will bind up and make your brakes squeal.
Do you drive hard?
You may have overheated the brake pads and heat-cracked them.
The only way to check them is to take them off again and inspect the pads for heat stress cracks.Brake Rotors?If you replaced them 10,000 miles ago they will not need to be changed.
Have the pad's changed and the rotors might have to be turned, which is where they put the rotors on a lathe and cut a clean straight surface on them. This can typically be done twice before they have to be replaced.
If when you put the brakes on the car shudders slightly this is an indication that they need turned. If there is any kind of audible noise it's most likely just the pads.Brake Rotors?forget the other answers. The squealing is caused by %26quot;squealers%26quot;, they are attached to the brake pads and come into contact with the rotors when your brake pads become worn. Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake and the rotors are within a certain thickness, they should be fine.Have the pads changed by a Reputable shop, and if possible watch them do it as alot of places will rip you off.Brake Rotors?Ever since Asbestos was outlawed for use in brake pads the industry has had to make more agressive friction material. These agressive brake pads grind the rotors at an advanced rate but 10,000 miles is too fast even for the new pads. You may need to change rotors everytime you redo the front brakes but they should last for 30,000 miles. Probably something else is making the noise but check the linings first just because it is the easiest thing to do. Then look to see if anything is gouging the rotor, and what it is. Check the wheel bearings too. If the caliper has frozen on one side it will have used up the other pad quickly. Do your home work. You will find it.Brake Rotors?Get a micro meter and measure. Most BMW automotive books can tell you the acceptable thickness of the rotor. Generally, BMW rotors will last up 80K - 120K miles.
BMW cars have computer controlled pads wear sensors. They are located in Front Left wheel, and Rear Right wheel. So if it is a pads wear problem, your %26quot;brake lining%26quot; light would come on, telling you to replace the pads.skin itch when get hot gray hair
The pads will wear a lot faster than most rotors. When you have a brake job done, they typically will replace the pads and measure the rotors to see if they are still within specifications. If they are, and can be machined, they will machine the rotors. Which basically makes the rotors smooth again to give the brakes a good surface to press against.
If you let the brake pads either %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors by going metal to metal or even some squeal plates make a gouge in the rotors they won't be able to machine them and you'll need to get them replaced.
If you are just starting to hear noise, go get the brakes inspected before they %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors too deeply.Brake Rotors?Extremely helpful but wrong. Brake rotors can absolutely cause noise and on German cars the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads. That is how they are engineered. I've replaced thousands of german brakes, I know.
Report Abuse
Brake Rotors?if it squeaks every 2 seconds its the padsBrake Rotors?Its a BMW. As is typical of European design the pads and rotors are engineered to wear out at the same time.Brake Rotors?Rotors are ok I would have the pads inspected see how much life is left to them if you need brake pads then they will resurface the rotors. If you have drum brakes in the rear have them or you perform a clean and adjust this will help extend the life of the front pads cause they wont have to work as hard. If you have disc brakes in the rear do the same as the front. Also all rotors have a measurement to them and where you get your work done should be taking measurements of your rotors before performing any work. I hope this info is helpful.Brake Rotors?If you do not have a pulsating feel when you apply the brakes, it isn't the rotors.Did you change the pads yourself?
Did you use brake grease on the caliper pins when you reinstalled them? This is an overlooked item. Not greasing those pins will cause the caliper to not float freely, the brakes will bind up and make your brakes squeal.
Do you drive hard?
You may have overheated the brake pads and heat-cracked them.
The only way to check them is to take them off again and inspect the pads for heat stress cracks.Brake Rotors?If you replaced them 10,000 miles ago they will not need to be changed.
Have the pad's changed and the rotors might have to be turned, which is where they put the rotors on a lathe and cut a clean straight surface on them. This can typically be done twice before they have to be replaced.
If when you put the brakes on the car shudders slightly this is an indication that they need turned. If there is any kind of audible noise it's most likely just the pads.Brake Rotors?forget the other answers. The squealing is caused by %26quot;squealers%26quot;, they are attached to the brake pads and come into contact with the rotors when your brake pads become worn. Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake and the rotors are within a certain thickness, they should be fine.Have the pads changed by a Reputable shop, and if possible watch them do it as alot of places will rip you off.Brake Rotors?Ever since Asbestos was outlawed for use in brake pads the industry has had to make more agressive friction material. These agressive brake pads grind the rotors at an advanced rate but 10,000 miles is too fast even for the new pads. You may need to change rotors everytime you redo the front brakes but they should last for 30,000 miles. Probably something else is making the noise but check the linings first just because it is the easiest thing to do. Then look to see if anything is gouging the rotor, and what it is. Check the wheel bearings too. If the caliper has frozen on one side it will have used up the other pad quickly. Do your home work. You will find it.Brake Rotors?Get a micro meter and measure. Most BMW automotive books can tell you the acceptable thickness of the rotor. Generally, BMW rotors will last up 80K - 120K miles.
BMW cars have computer controlled pads wear sensors. They are located in Front Left wheel, and Rear Right wheel. So if it is a pads wear problem, your %26quot;brake lining%26quot; light would come on, telling you to replace the pads.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)